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Fantastic Brand New FIVE Strobe
Professional Lighting Studio Package IV!
At a price you can afford (for a change)!

You Get all this:	Everything is BRAND NEW!
Just scroll down to see pictures / descriptions, or jump to an item by clicking on the "Show Me" links. Kit 375 1) Two Britek SM-1250 Professional Studio Flash Units (125WS) Show Me! 2) One AS-120 90WS Professional Strobe Show Me! 3) Two AS-66 Mini Slave Strobes (20WS) Show Me! 4) Custom Snoot, Barndoors, Honeycomb for Mini Slave Strobes Show Me! 5) Two Britek 3.3 to 7.5 Foot Light stands Show Me! 6) One Britek 303 Backlight stand Show Me! 7) One 32" Silver / Gold Reflection Umbrella Show Me! 8) One 44" White / Black Reflection Umbrella Show Me! 9) Two Unique Umbrella Reflectors Show Me! 10) One Snoot Show Me! 11) One Honeycomb Show Me! 12) One set of Barn Doors Show Me! 13) 2 Pan Head w/Umbrella Clamp Holders (for AS66 strobes) Show Me! 14) One Tilt/Swivel Bulb Holder (for AS-120 Strobe) Show Me! 15) BONUS! Custom light stand carrying/storage case! Show Me! 16) BONUS! Custom Strobe carrying/storage case! Show Me! 17) BONUS! One 6' 8" x 9' Raw Muslin Background/Backdrop Show Me!
A Whole Basic Photographic Studio Setup in One Great Package!

NOTE: The SM-1250 Strobes have been discontinued, and are replaced with the newer, more powerful (and more expensive) PS-300 Pro Strobe. The SM-1250 Strobe(s) in this package will be automatically replaced with the PS-300 Pro Strobe(s) at no additional cost. See the PS-300 here.

Package 375

	Shop with confidence! Bid with confidence! Buy with confidence! From a Profoundly Proud eBay PowerSeller! This PowerSeller proudly provides a plethora of perfect premium photographic products - PLUS - pure, powerful, and peerless customer service! [Ain't that great alliteration? Huh? Well, ain't it?]
--> Check out all my other wonderful auctions!
Check out my great Photographic web sites HERE and HERE!

Here's some information about the items comprising
your new studio package: The Strobes!

NOTE: The SM-1250 Strobes have been discontinued, and are replaced with the newer, more powerful (and more expensive) PS-300 Pro Strobe. The SM-1250 Strobe(s) in this package will be automatically replaced with the PS-300 Pro Strobe(s) at no additional cost. See the PS-300 here.

The NEW SM-1250 Monolight This brand new Britek SM-1250 is a great starter Monolight for the beginning professional, the pro with tight budget constraints, or the advanced amateur who is ready to bring the professional look to his or her photographs (without mortgaging the house). Why are photogs so in love with their studios? BECAUSE (in our studios) WE CAN CONTROL THE LIGHT! And a "studio" can be a corner of any room, as long as we can CONTROL THE LIGHT. In our studios, we can play God! We can make it daytime or evening or night; we can shoot 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. We can CREATE anything we can imagine - as long as we can CONTROL THE LIGHT!

After all, the word "Photographer" itself (from Greek) actually means Light Writer, or "one who writes with light." The term is meaningful because those of us who make photographs are slaves to light. Light is both our nemesis and our salvation (when we can control the light). Without the right types of lighting equipment, we can never progress to professional level studio pictures. Or location pictures. Sure, we can make beautiful photos with available light... when the light's just right, at the exact time we need it, and at exact place we need it, if it's not raining, if it's not snowing, if it's not too cold, if it's not too hot, if it's not dark out, if everyone we need to make the pictures are available, under all the right conditions.... beginning to see now? When we can control the light, we can make the best photographs (and with this great package, you'll be able to do just that).

PhotoSpeak: BTW, did you notice, above, that I said "make" photographs, and not "take" pictures? Well, here's your first lesson in how pros speak about photography (photospeak): "Snapshooters" or "point and shooters," who don't think and plan their shots (e.g., most of us) are the ones who "take" pictures (the rank amateurs). Photographers "make" great photographs by careful thought, detailed planning, and, most of all, scrupulous attention to lighting. Before they even think about pressing that shutter, they "design" their photos carefully. Soon, with a little effort, you'll be "making" great photographs! It's not that hard, believe me. But ya gotta CONTROL THE LIGHT!

This little beauty cranks out a full 125 watt seconds* for mamma or poppa (or both)! Why do photographers want powerful flash equipment (strobes)? Because (both indoors and outdoors) with strobes, WE CAN CONTROL THE LIGHT! Sound familiar? Starting to get the picture, now? (sorry, I just couldn't resist ;-) BTW, did you realize that both the photo above, and the photo on the left, were both taken against the same background? Yup. The backdrop was a pure white canvas. Why does the picture on the left look like it has a brown background? BECAUSE I COULD CONTROL THE LIGHT. Even with a cheapie old (really old) digital Fuji (no speed control, no slr, no aperture choice, etc.). How did I do it? See the "Technique" section, just below. Hmmm... Light! *What's a "Watt Second?" And what's a "GN?"

Technique: How was I able to make the background that's in the top picture pure white, and the very same background, in the picture above, appear brown? It's easy - when you know how (it's sorta like this: What kind of question is a hard question? Answer: One you don't know the answer to. And what kind of question is an easy question? Answer: That's the one you do know the answer to). Here's how it's done: In the top picture, I lit the background with a backlight strobe (it's own strobe), so it received enough light to expose properly, and consequently it came out pure white. In the picture above, I did not light the background; I just used the tiny little built-in flash on the digital Fuji, which was enough to (barely) light the strobe I was photographing, but too weak to reach or brighten up the backdrop to white; therefore, the background underexposed and looked brownish, even though it was really a pure white canvas! Carried to an extreme, I could even make a white background look black, if I wanted to. How? By lighting the subject so brightly that the (unlit) background would underexpose (i.e., not receive enough light) so badly it would come out black. It's all in the LIGHT folks; it's all in the light! Remember, a photographer is a LIGHT writer. Back to the top

Everything you'll need to start creating GREAT images! All in ONE kit! A GREAT starter studio all together in one package. This will give you a whole starter studio that can be packed away and stashed in the corner of a closet (or laid out in a permanent studio setup)! And the whole package can be yours for a price you can really afford. The reserve (believe it or not) is under $650.00! You just might win this phenomenal package for an unbelievably low price.

With this package, you'll have a great, professional FIVE strobe studio setup for LESS than you might pay for a single competing light! (Well, probably, anyway :)

More SM-1250 details.....

This is a Fabulous deal, but let's not lose sight of the reality. If you're rich, have a sugar-mommy or daddy, are a high-income pro, or if you can get financing, my advice would be to spring for something (several somethings, in fact) more powerful, more feature-rich (and a LOT more expensive). Lights are like hard disks and internet connections: no matter how big a hard disk is, and no matter how fast your net connection is, they're never big or fast enough. But if you're just starting out, or are on a budget, or are an advanced (or advancing) amateur, these little babies sure make a lot of sense. Let's face it, your portrait clients (or your mother-in-law) won't have any idea whether you paid three hundred or three thousand for each of these strobes; they'll just be impressed (let them think they cost you an arm and a leg; especially those snooty, skinny, little models - "Ya want great head shots, sweetie? It's gonna cost ya; hell, my lights are so valuable, whenever I trade one in, I gotta pay it alimony!") Umm, just some photographer humor, folks :) - it sorta grows on you as you progress in photography; you'll see.

Now lemme tell ya about another great feature on these dynamite little units that's not found on many competing strobes costing 3-5 times the price of these: when you set these units for 1/2 power, the modeling lights ALSO dim to 1/2 power! What a great feature (what's a "modeling light?" see the explanation just below this picture)! [Why, you may ask, would we want to reduce a strobe's power output? see the "technique" section, below). As we can see from the back view, The New SM-1250 is well-stocked with controls and comes with all the extras already built-in. The SM-1250 is a "Monolight," which means that all the required components are included in the one compact package (as opposed to other strobes which may have the flash head in one segment, and then need an additional and separate power supply in order to get it to work; at an additional cost, too). With these units, everything is included; just plug them in, and fire away!

BTW, a "Modeling Light" is a separate, additional, light (in addition to the strobe's "Flash Tube") that's built into the strobe and throws continuous light over the same area as the strobe's flash tube will (see the picture below for a close-up). You turn on the modeling light (before your shot), so the photographer can see what the modeling will look like, as s/he adjusts the lights before he takes the shot and fires the strobe ("Modeling" is PhotoSpeak for the highlights (light areas) and shadows (dark areas) that fall upon the subject, giving it the depth and texture necessary for professional results). This great feature (modeling light) is usually only found on much more expensive lights. This unit can be activated by the PC Cord (included, of course), the Test Button, or the Slave Sensor (which means that any other flash, even your camera's little built-in flash, can automatically fire this unit by it's light alone, so you don't even need to use a sync (PC) cord unless you want to). BTW, a "PC Cord" (Push Contact), also called a "Sync Cord" is a wire that connects the strobe to your camera's PC socket, and fires the strobe when you press the camera's shutter button. Back to the top

Wanna know what the reserve price is set at? I NEVER hide prices from my (beloved) bidders, and ALWAYS list the reserve prices in all my reserve auctions! Just look for "Elvis" and right above it will be the reserve price!

	We can see the difference between the Modeling Light Bulb and the Flash Tube (the circular tube surrounding the modeling bulb) in this close-up shot of the SM-1250's business end (with the reflector removed, of course). The modeling light is especially valuable to the amateur, because it let's us "see" exactly where the light will fall when the strobe flashes. This feature alone is worth at least a hundred rolls of ruined film (which you'll save by having a modeling light)! One of the major questions (and hesitations) I had when I was beginning to learn photography, was "If you use strobes, how do you know what the subject will look like, or how and where the light will illuminate the subject, if you don't have continuous lighting to judge by?" The answer was really simple: You don't. UNLESS your strobes also have MODELING LIGHTS! With modeling lights, you can see exactly where the strobe's flash will illuminate the subject, because the modeling light falls on the subject the same as the strobe's light will fall on the subject (less intensely, of course)! And this is why the pros pay lotsa money for good strobes that come with modeling lights. That's why the professional photographer's pictures look so much better than ours do: they have the right equipment for the job! They can CONTROL THE LIGHT! And now, so can you.
PhotoSpeak: What's a "Slave Sensor?" Well, if you had to use a PC Cord for every strobe, just think what a mess of tangled wires you'd have if you were using 5 or 6 or more strobes to light your subject (as many pros do)! So, science came to our rescue with slave sensors. It's a tiny little sensor built into most good strobes, that sits & waits for a short, intense burst of light. When it detects this burst of light (the flash from another strobe), it automatically sets off the flash tube in the strobe its built into. Voila! Now, with strobes that have slave sensors (often just called "slaves"), we can connect only one strobe to our cameras (with the PC or Sync cord), usually the strobe closest to our camera, and when we press the shutter button, firing the one connected strobe, that flash will automatically set off all the other strobes we may be using for that shot! Ah, ain't technology wunnerful (sic)? Even most of the little flashes built into most modern cameras can set off most strobes with slaves. A strobe that has PC socket, or both a PC Socket and a slave sensor is called a "Master" strobe; a strobe that only has a slave sensor and no PC socket (usually less expensive units) is called a "Slave." Whichever strobe you're using with a PC cord is referred to as your "master" strobe for purposes of that shot. Most of the better strobes have both PC sockets and slave sensors, so they're more versatile and useful to us (however, there are many very good slaves out there today, and you won't need all your strobes to be masters, so don't hesitate to buy some decent slaves when the time comes - and, believe me, if you stick with photography, the time will come).
Complete: Each of these SM-1250s comes complete with umbrella-capable reflector, sync cord, AC cord, Flash Tube, Modeling Light, built-in umbrella holder, and standard light stand connector; it's ready to plug in and fire away! Since all the strobes in this package are A.C. units, they're ready to rock! No batteries or powerpacks or light heads or connector cords are needed; just plug 'em in, and (just like Elvis) you're ready to rock and roll. As with all quality strobes, these are capable of using many additional accessories, whenever you're ready for them (e.g., snoots, barn doors, softboxes, stands, unbrellas, honeycombs, gel holders, etc.). BTW, pros use umbrellas to "bounce" the strobe's light off of (or sometimes through) to make the light softer, reduce or eliminate shadows, and "mellow-out" the picture. Softboxes (and SoftCases) and umbrellas are specifically designed for this purpose (and yes, these are able to use custom-fitted softboxes & softcases). These are brand new, 100% guaranteed, with the manufacturer's full one year warrantee . These are NOT seconds, blemishes, or anything other than brand new, absolutely perfect, current 2000 models! Just 'cause the price is great, doesn't mean these are in any way less than perfect! Questions? Requests? just e-mail any questions or requests, to me at PhotoSource3@pss3.com or check out-my web site HERE.-These strobes and other photographic equipment also come with an "extra" that's not available anywhere else, at any price whatsoever: FREE photographic education, advice and training from MyPhotoHome.com (coming soon to a computer near you)! MPH Members also get FREE web space (to post your own pictures), and much, much more (when MyPhotoHome.com comes online, shortly).
Point of Information: Why, you might be asking yourself, have virtually all photographers switched to using strobes, when "regular" continuous lights (photographers call them "hot" lights) are everywhere, and it's easier for us to see how the lighting will look with them? Well, the continuous lights, like the ones in our houses (tungsten lights), or halogen (and similar) are called "hot lights" for a reason: they get hot. Really hot! And the special photographic hot lights get twice as hot as household bulbs! This tends to make certain things, like flowers, foods, animals, and those darn pesky models, wilt. Especially models. They get very, very, unhappy when they wilt. Whine, gripe, groan; you'd think a little melting makeup, and running mascara, limp hair, and sticky lipstick, and beads of sweat running down their lovely curvaceous (umm, let's say noses) was a big deal or something, the way they complain! ;-) Next, there's a little problem with the "color temperature" being way off with hot lights, so we have to use special films (3200K or 3400K) or filters, or special photographic bulbs, when using them (strobes are perfectly balanced at 5500K to simulate sunlight, so we can use all the regular daylight films we've come to love/hate over the years). You'll notice that most of your pictures taken indoors without using a flash turn out with a yellowish color cast; that's because household lights are loaded with yellow and red light. The solution is to either use special films, or special filters. But why create more problems for yourself? Using strobes eliminates all these headaches (and heat!). Also, with continuous lights, they're always shining; usually right in our subject's eyes, causing squinting and annoyance (and ugly looking pictures). With strobes, nothing is shining in their eyes, and the flash is too short to cause any of this discomfort to our beloved subjects (until AFTER the flash, when they might be chasing all those little light blips around the room:). Additionally, with strobes, we can control the light much better! We can adjust the power output with the flick of a switch. We can modify the light with umbrellas, softboxes, softcases, filters, scrims and gobos, doo-dahs, and thingamajigs, etc., etc. We can direct the light with barn doors, snoots, honeycombs, and many other accessories. In short, with strobes, we can play God with our photography; WE CAN CONTROL THE LIGHT! And we can do it 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, whenever we want, no matter what the weather is, and without regard to daylight or night. There are yet other, more esoteric, as well as mundane reasons why strobes are the preferred means of photographic lighting in the modern world, but we'll pass on those things for now. You've probably had enough information shoved down your throat already (sorry, but I can't resist trying to educate everyone about photography).
BTW, technically speaking, all professional photographic flash units, even though nearly all pros call them "strobes," are not technically strobe lights. A real stroboscope is capable of dozens (or hundreds or even thousands) of flashes per second, and many can maintain that flash rate for hours on end. Our photographic strobes would die a dozen deaths if we tried to set them off 25 or 50 times a second! However, since photographers almost always call these lights "strobes," we'll just stick with the term; but, technically..... Well, you get the idea ;-> Back to the top

NOTE: The SM-1250 Strobes have been discontinued, and are replaced with the newer, more powerful (and more expensive) PS-300 Pro Strobe. The SM-1250 Strobe(s) in this package will be automatically replaced with the PS-300 Pro Strobe(s) at no additional cost. See the PS-300 here.

Technique: Why would we want to dim a strobe to 1/2 power? Because in order to get great pictures, we have to be able to control the light (sound familiar?) in a number of ways. Sometimes a full power flash is too powerful for the effect we're after; other times we may want to reduce the illumination to create a different mood. In people pictures, for a head shot (that's what photographers call a picture of a person's face, often the face and shoulders), we often want part of the face highlighted, and the other part of the face in a light to medium shadow. This interplay of light and shadow is called "modeling," and is a hallmark of good photography. Anyway, as an example, a common lighting ratio for people pictures is a 1:2 (also 1:3, 1:4, or even 1:5) ratio - full illumination on one side of the face, and 1/2 that amount of light on the other side of the subject's face (we rarely want full frontal lighting, because it gives the face a flat and unappealing look, as well as other negative aspects). The 1:2 (full/half) lighting combination can give us an interesting and often flattering image, with a good ratio of light and shadow - revealing the character, and giving us depth and texture (but be sure to play around with other lighting ratios, too, for even more creativity). Whenever we have two strobes to work with, we can achieve this 1:2 ratio by moving one strobe (the one providing the shadow side lighting) twice as far away from the subject as our main light (the strobe providing the full illumination). But often things get in the way, like walls and such; not all of us have lots of room in our studios (especially living room studios :) to move our lights as far away as we like. Aha! The scientific wizards devised a most convenient solution! A variable-power strobe (like this great SM-1250)! Now, instead of moving lights all over the place, all we have to do is flip a switch, and Voila! 1/2 power without any hassle at all! In some very powerful strobes, we might even find variations from full power, all the way down to 1/32 power. Another way to achieve a lighting ratio (when we only have one strobe) is to use a reflector to "bounce" some light onto the shadow side of the subject's face. You can buy a "professional" reflector for as much as $100.00 or more, but I just use a white poster board, which you can find at any art supply store for under two bucks. You don't have to spend a fortune to make great pictures, just use your equipment to its fullest extent - and use your head! Back to SM-1250 description

BTW, this particular package was designed to allow us to use the two SM-1250 Strobes, with their master/slave, variable power, and interchangeable reflector capabilities, to light our subjects in the most creative manner (whether they're people or things) , and still have the AS-120 to light our backgrounds for us (or for toplights, or for an additional main light), and still have the two AS-66 Mini-Strobes to use for a hair light or for anywhere we might want an extra highlight or spot of light. Remember, whenever possible, always try to have the subject at least 36" - 60" in front of the background (whether it's a wall, a sheet, or a professional backdrop, it doesn't matter), so you can 1) hide the background light behind your subject, 2) avoid having the subject's shadow fall on the background, and 3) give the picture 3 dimensional depth and separation (between the subject and the background). Another hint: The best background to start out with (presuming you can't afford a dozen different backgrounds), is white or cream, because by simply using a color filter over your background light, you can easily change the color of the background! See a sample of color filter kits.

Remember, you're getting TWO of these great SM-1250 strobes!

NOTE: The SM-1250 Strobes have been discontinued, and are replaced with the newer, more powerful (and more expensive) PS-300 Pro Strobe. The SM-1250 Strobe(s) in this package will be automatically replaced with the PS-300 Pro Strobe(s) at no additional cost. See the PS-300 here.

Here's some information about the items comprising
your new pro package: The AS-120 Professional Studio Strobe

	AS-120 Variable-Power, Multi-Use Professional Flash Unit The AS-120 is a dynamite strobe with all the extras already built-in. It gives you variable power output (full power and 1/2 power) with a flip of the switch, 90WS of powerful light output, can be used as a master strobe (sync cord included, of course), or with its sensitive optical slave trigger (as well as a test button; see picture below). As you get into photographic lighting techniques, you'll discover that you can't have too many lights; and this one is wonderful for many different jobs. You'll find this versatile strobe great for numerous uses: lighting your main subjects, lighting your backgrounds, hair lights, rim lights, spot lights, and many other uses. Compatible with a complete line of accessories (snoots, barndoors, honeycombs, etc., etc.), of course, as your future needs may require. Specifications: - 90W/S (J) Output (actually over 100!) - 1, 1/2, Power, Control 22F/ Stop Setting - GN 36M, 120/Ft - Slave, Synch, Test Trigger - 3-5 Sec. Charging Time - E-27 Edison Base - Slave Sensitivity: 15M (50Ft) - Light output angle: 60º
	As you can see from this top view, the AS-120 has all the controls you'll need, already built in. The "Test" button allows you to fire the strobe to assure that it's working properly, or to take a flash meter reading. The "Ready Light" tells you when it's charged up and ready to be fired, and the "Sync" terminal lets you connect it to your camera's PC plug whenever you want to use it as a master strobe. The Slave sensor is explained above. This unit can be activated by the PC Cord (included, of course), the Test Button, or the Slave Sensor (which means that any other flash, even your camera's little built-in flash, can automatically fire this unit by it's light alone, so you don't even need to use a sync (PC) cord unless you want to). BTW, a "PC Cord" (Push Contact), also called a "Sync Cord" is a wire that connects the strobe to your camera, and fires the strobe when you press the camera's shutter button.
This view shows you the "Full / Half" Power Switch, which lets you easily choose whether to shoot at its full 90WS of power, or at its 45WS half power, with the flip of a switch! Actually, folks, when I tested the power output (with my brand new Sekonic L-508 flashmeter - which I Love dearly!), it really pumped out over 100WS! But since it's listed at 90WS by Britek, we'll just call it 90WS.
And, as you can see here, the AS-120 also has an integral (built-in) light stand connector. This allows you to use either the Tilt/Swivel Bulb Holder (as seen in the picture above), that's included with this package (of course! all my auctions contain well-designed kits and packages that come with everything you'll need to use your new equipment - unlike some others you'll find selling "kits" online that need extra parts - at additional costs, too), or you can attach the AS-120 to the light stand with its built-in attachment for better balance when using light modifiers (softboxes, umbrellas, etc.) which add weight to the front end of the unit. All good equipment gives you the options you need to make the best choices for your needs. It's my job to make sure my (wonderful and cherished) customers receive the best equipment available - at the best possible price.
Feel free to contact me with any questions: PhotoSource3@pss3.com - or - wryter@pacbell.net

Back to the top

Q. What the heck is a "WS" and what's a "GN," and what in the world do they mean?

WS = Watt Second | GN = Guide Number Here's a brief explanation (using, for this example, your new SM-1250 strobe (well, it might be yours soon:) , which has a power level of 125WS, and a GN of 125): The "125WS" (or the 80WS, or 20WS, etc.) is the output power of your strobe and a watt second is equal to the electrical term "joules," a high-falutin term for a high power level. The Guide Number (GN) of these SM-1250 units is also 125 (for ASA/ISO 100 film), with a standard reflector. Often, the Watt Second power output is close to the guide number. What good is knowing the guide number? Well, the GN gives us a method of calculating exposure (for any strobe and any film) in this way: to calculate the correct approximate exposure for any subject at any distance, simply divide the distance (in feet) that the subject is from the strobe, into the strobe's GN (guide number); the result is our approximate "F" stop. For example, (presuming you're using ISO/ASA 100 film), our GN is 125, and the subject is 12 feet away, then: 125 (GN) divided by 12 (feet away from the subject) = 10.4, so we'd use an exposure setting of about F11. If our subject is 8 feet away, then: 125 divided by 8 = 15.6 which would give us an approximate F stop of about F 16 (bracketing is always a good idea, too). See? Umm, if you don't understand it, don't worry about it (it took me years to fully comprehend). Suggestion: If you're serious about improving your photography, you might consider getting a handheld flash/ambient light meter (sorry, I don't carry any at this time; if you want recommendations, just ask me). Back to SM-1250 description

Wanna know what the reserve price is set at? I NEVER hide prices from my (beloved) bidders, and ALWAYS list the reserve prices in all my reserve auctions! Just look for "Elvis" and right above it will be the reserve price!

Questions, questions, questions....

How can you sell brand new photographic equipment for such low prices? What shipping and payment options do you offer? How do I know I can trust you with my hard-earned money? What's your policy on customer service? Will these pro strobes work with my camera? With my digital camera? What if my camera is old? How do I contact you? If I live in Southern California; can I pick up the equipment myself? Will you offer more photographic equipment (than you have now)? Are your products guaranteed or warranted? What if I want certain equipment, but you don't have an auction with the equipment I want? Do you accept Lay-Away payment plans? Will you ship to Canada or Europe or Asia? What if I have some technical questions? Hey! Somebody else e-mailed me after I bid on your auction(s) and offered me a "deal" on cheaper equipment... and many more of your questions answered - just click below!

Answers, answers, answers....

Here's some information about the items comprising
your new studio kit: The AS-66 Mini-Strobes -Plus - Custom Accessory Sets

AS-66 Mini-Strobe: This has got to be the cutest little Mini-Slave you've ever seen! It's great for adding a hairlight, or a fill light, or for anyplace you might want an extra spot of light! It pumps out 20WS of light, and with all it's included accessories, you'll be able to place that light exactly where you want it. Hey, this is small, but it allows us to add those extra highlights that separate the amateur images from the professional images! This is an accessory light that you'll find yourself using for just about every shot - you'll see!

The Specs: AS-66 Mini-Strobe Slave: 20WS Output GN No.: 66 feet with ASA 100 Receptacle: E27 Edison Screw Base Triggering: Test Button and Slave Sensor Recycling Time: 4-6 seconds Effective Slave Distance: 50 feet WeightL 100 grams Size: 12 x 6 x 6 CM Accessories Included: Custom-Fitted: Barndoors Honeycomb Snoot - Plus - E-27S Tilt & Swivel Panning Light Holder with integral Umbrella Holder, 10 foot Power Cord, and On-Off Switch

Reality Check: But be aware, though, that this unit is NOT sufficient to light a large subject (e.g., people) all by itself. But to illuminate small items, or for a fill light, an accent light, a hairlight, a copy light, or as an additional light for all your setups, etc., this 'lil beauty is a photographer's best friend! It will come in handy for almost every shot, and will allow you to fill in those little areas where an extra highlight or a little spot of light - right where you need it -can make all the difference in your shot. The accessories included will allow you to direct the light to the specific spot or area you want. Remember, it's all in the little details! Also, remember that the two clamp bulb holders included with this package, for use with these two AS-66 Mini-Strobes, will let you put these little babies exactly where you need them - as you would expect to find with all my (well designed) photographic packages! That's just one more reason to choose PhotoSource3 as your (beloved) photographic supplier - because I really am a photographer - and as a result know exactly what you'll need (as well as what you won't need) to make great images!

Check out my great Photographic web site HERE! Back to top

You're getting Two of these AS-66 Mini Strobes (+ accessories)!

Here's some information about the items comprising
your new studio kit: Brand New 3.3 to 7.5 Foot Light stands

Unlike many of the items you'll find listed on eBay, these light stands are Brand New, not old, used, banged-up cast-offs that someone else is trying to get rid of. These are 100% new, perfect, and come with the manufacturer's full warantee. Consider this when making your purchasing decisions.

These fabulous light stands are truly top quality units without compromises. These Brand New Britek light stands extend to a height of 7 1/2 Feet, and fold down (fully assembled) to only 3.3 feet for easy packing and transport. These stands have a black finish which reduces unwanted glare; three vertical sections (22mm, 19mm, 16mm), and three double-braced legs (16mm), which provide excellent stability in the studio or on location. They're topped with a standard 5/8" stud, with a 1/4" thread, type B. Sturdy as all get out, yet only weigh about 3.3 lbs. (so you can pack up a set of three stands for under 10 lbs. for location shoots - believe me, schlepping around anything heavier can give you a hernia, especially when added to all your other gear). Yet these babies can be folded up and put in the corner of your closet and take up very little space. I've been using these same stands for over a year now, and couldn't be happier! You'll probably love 'em, too. They're sized perfectly for multiple uses: with a low height of 3.3 feet, they're great for background lighting; at their full 7.5 feet, they're perfect for lighting from above, or hairlights; and adjusting them anywhere in-between, they're perfect for subject-level lighting, whether you're photographing kids or basketball players (or things)! BTW, as stated above, you'll be buying brand new stands here, NOT my used ones (those are mine! you can't have them; I like them, and I'm gonna keep them; you go buy your own! Reality Check: Hey, if you're rich, I'd suggest buying a set of bigger, heavier (& more expensive) stands for your pro studio setup, and another set of lightweight stands for location shoots; but my studio is in my house, and I don't have 20 foot ceilings for the 18' stands anyway, so these stands work just fine for me. 7 1/2 feet is plenty high, even for hairlights, or toplighting, etc. And they're unquestionably sturdy enough for studio work, and light enough for location work. Realize, though, that these stands, while certainly a great deal and a marvelous value, are the working photog's reliable, blue collar light stands; not the prissy luxury models. Treat them with minimal respect, and they'll see you through to old age. These light stands, like all this equipment, are brand new and, of course, they come with the manufacturer's full warrantee. Additional accessories are also available (booms, clamps, studs, swivels, adapters, ball tilt heads, etc., etc.), as your needs may dictate. These sturdy light stands are rated to hold a load of over 17 1/2 pounds (but, personally, I try to keep the load under 15 lbs when it's fully extended out to 7 1/2 feet) either way, they're likely to be able to hold darn near any lighting units you're using. All the sections of these stands are quality tubular stock, NOT the cheapie solid ones (which are heavier and less versatile, as well as cheaper). The only "cheap" part of these stands is the price - not the quality! Bid now, while they're still in stock.

Check out my other auctions! I usually have photo equipment, pro strobes, background systems, and other great photo stuff, etc. listed.

Remember, you're getting Two of these great light stands!

Here's some information about the items comprising
your new studio kit: The Backlight Stand!

Backlight Stand Now here's one of the best backlight stands I've ever come across. First of all, it comes apart and folds up into a tiny little package when you're not using it. Next, it's got some really neat extras, like the additional connector on one of its legs that allows us to connect another light or accessory to it, right where we'll need it, too (it's removable, too)! And it's adjustable from a low of only 1.1 foot up to 3.3 feet. It's black, to reduce glare and interference, it has neat little rubber pads on all three of its feet, and comes with a standard light connector on top. Basically, this is the coolest backlight stand I've seen in a long time. Specifications: 3 Section pole: 22, 19, and 16mm tubular stock Weight: 2.9 lbs. Attachment: 5/8" stud with 1/4" thread, type B Base attachment: Type D Back to top

You're getting one of these Great Backlight Stands with this package.

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Here's some information about the items comprising
your new studio kit: The Umbrellas & Accessories!

	White/Black Reflection Umbrella: 44" This huge, 44" White/Black umbrella is made of the new P-Satin clothes-PU bonding with high denier Satin. Their Black cover can achieve almost 100% light reflection rate and provide soft almost shadowless light, which is suitable for indirect and diffusive lighting. A wonderful method of softening the light. Technique: Photographers use these umbrellas to diffuse and soften light; in portraits, for example, this soft lighting very effectively hides many of the lines and wrinkles on the faces of our victims (umm, our "subjects" :), making them look younger and more vital. It's also great for photographing highly reflective surfaces, such as jewelry, glass, and chrome (it avoids the bright reflections that mess up our pictures). But don't let our clients know our little secrets, just accept their appreciation (along with your quickly-escalating fees), and let them believe it was your phenomenal photographic skill that made them (or their products) look so damn good! Look, you're spending a lot of time and money acquiring the equipment, and learning the skills of the photographic arts; you're becoming a skilled professional; your work is valuable as well as beautiful. Don't price yourself out of the market, certainly, but don't sell yourself cheap, either.
	Point of Information: BTW (which means "by the way" for any "newbies" paying us a visit), a "Reflection" umbrella is one that reflects the strobe's light back onto the subject, and thereby softens and diffuses the light. This technique is often used in portraits and for photographing reflective surfaces (glass, jewelry, chrome, mirrors, etc.), and performs many beneficial services for all us hard-working, underpaid, and under-appreciated photographic artists. Keep it a secret from others, though, and let them think we get our beautiful images through some sort of esoteric magic, passed down through the centuries, from master to disciple. It helps increase our value ;-) - and please don't send me any e-mail explaining that photography hasn't been around for centuries, I know that. Duh (actually, photography in one form or another has been around for about a century and a half). Back to the top
	Silver / Gold Reflection Umbrella 32" The Gold & Silver umbrellas are made of high 300 denier black cover with PU coating. Inner surfaces are bonded with Silver and Gold aluminum metallic foil. The Gold side produces a lovely, warm reflected light that creates those warm, soft, healthy skin tones that are so desirable for portraiture (and many other areas of photography). As with all well-designed, and properly thought-out photographic packages, the accessories included with this great professional kit are those which the photographer needs most, so s/he can create the most effective and striking images for the majority of situations in which we find ourselves in today's world.
	H70- 150mm 6" Umbrella Reflectors Used alone for about 60º coverage, or with barn doors to control lighting spread, or with an umbrella to create soft and diffuse lighting. This custom reflector is designed with a special "slot" in it to allow for the use of an umbrella, without the need for a special umbrella holder accessory! A unique Britek innovation! This is usually the reflector that comes with the Britek SM-1250 Strobes, since they have an integral umbrella holder built in to the strobe's light stand connector. You get TWO of these reflectors with your package.
	H70MM Snoot The Snoot provides a 30º concentrated light source for spot lighting or dramatic accents. Often used to "spotlight" a product, or a specific area of a photograph; and used for hairlights in people pictures (your new AS-66 Mini-Strobe is also a great hairlight). One of the photographer's "must have" accessories (for the SM-1250s).
	Medium Honeycomb This unit attaches to the end of the Snoot, above, and restricts the light beam to 15º as well as softening the light. Often used for hairlights and accent lights, as well as many other uses. Another one of the photographer's "must have" accessories (for the SM-1250s).
	Barndoors This unit attaches to the strobe's reflector. Barndoors are used by photographers to restrict and control light; wide, narrow, and anything in-between, can be easily achieved by moving the "doors" open or closed over your strobe (for the SM-1250s).
	Here's a great little accessory that all photographers always need more of: a panning light head with integral umbrella holder! It's hard to wax philosophic about a photographic accessory, but anyone who's ever worked with lights knows that these little tools are absolutely indispensable. For example, even a super-duper, antique, $100,000.00 table lamp isn't going to do anyone much good without a light bulb that works. It's hard to admire anything sitting in the dark! But this little baby works, and keeps on working. You'll need one of these for every standard e-27 Edison base strobe or continuous light you'll ever work with (the E-27 is the standard household light socket size, so you can use "regular" lights with it too, if need be). Plus, this little baby has an integral (built-in) umbrella holder, which saves you from having to buy an additional umbrella adapter, whenever you might want to "bounce" the light off of (or through) an umbrella. This is used with the AS--120 Strobe that's part of this package. As with all well-designed kits, everything you'll need to make all the equipment work, is included. Specifications: Single standard E-27 bulb socket On / Off switch 10 foot power cord 3/8" Stud for attaching to light stands
	Similar to the Tilt/Swivel Bulb Holder above, this bulb holder is an integral part of an amazingly versatile clamp! With this little accessory, you can place your E-27 base strobes (like the AS-66's in this kit) anywhere your photographically demanding little heart desires! Clamp them onto a light stand, or a chair, or a desk, or a ladder, or a door, or darn near anything else that may be handy! These little units will make your life so much easier (put that light anywhere you want!), that you'll be amazed how you ever got by without them before this! You'll use these for your two AS-66 Mini-Strobes, and since you can "clamp" them anywhere you like, without requiring additional light stands, you save money with this great package, without sacrificing capabilities, while increasing creative control! Specifications: Single standard E-27 bulb socket On / Off switch 10 foot power cord Versatile "anywhere" Clamp
	Custom Light stand and Umbrella Carrying Case This custom high quality carrying bag is designed to hold all three of your light stands, AND both of your new Umbrellas! Don't tell anyone, but I somehow manage to pack in a few extra goodies whenever I really have to. UPGRADE: New larger light stand carrying case replaces current case at no extra charge! Back to the top
	Custom Strobe and Accessories Carrying Case This custom-made high quality carrying case is designed to hold all four of your strobe lights, AND all your extra accessories, with room for more! It's heavily padded for the safety of your new toys, and has several removable panels and separators, which allow you to customize the interior to suit your ever-changing needs. Finally, a bag that fits!! UPGRADE: New larger strobe carrying case replaces current case at no extra charge! Back to top
	You're also getting a great new 6' 8" X 9' Raw Muslin Background / Backdrop to start you off! This is a great starter background for those of us who are just begining to realize the importance of backdrops to good photography (see a sample of how backgrounds can affect your pictures, below). Raw muslin is a lovely cream color (sort of like this background color), and has been used in its raw state as a favorite of photographers for decades. Be aware that this is a brand new, top quality, 100% pure cotton muslin (unlike the cheap recycled and cotton blend so-called "muslins" that others have been selling online recently). Also, you can easily dye and/or paint raw muslin to create beautiful custom backgrounds that sell for up to $450.00! What IS a "Muslin" you may ask? Muslin is a type of cotton material that is light weight, easily hung, draped, stretched, folded, or rolled. It's easy to paint and dye, and relatively inexpensive. You'll likely acquire several different color muslins as your photographic needs advance. But if your budget won't stretch to buy additional backgrounds, you add to your background creativity by using a bed sheet (iron it first, so all the wrinkles are gone), or a wall, or buy some cheap material at a local fabric store. Set your victim (um, your "subject," that is:) at least 4-6 feet in front of your background (whatever it may be), and place your background strobe behind your subject (hidden from the camera's view, of course). Please note that this muslin does not come hemmed or with a loop sewn across the top (however, it's a simple matter to make a loop - to insert a background cross bar through - with a few safety pins (real photographers improvise:), or you can sew one yourself, if you're handy). When you get more backgrounds/backdrops, you might consider acquiring a Background Support Set to hold them; but for now, just tape, thumbtack, or hang your muslin behind your victim (er, your "subject," that is:) in any convenient manner; nobody will know what you don't have in the final prints anyway. No need to spend a fortune to get great pictures, just be imaginative and creative with the equipment you have.
Technique: The most important "secret" of good photography is the thought the photographer puts into a picture before s/he even considers what type of film to use! The point here is that we have to train ourselves to think before we shoot! What color is our subject? How can we make that color (or shade) stand out? Look at the example here, and see how the simple choice of using a background that matches our subject's (blue) eye color can improve our pictures. We have to ask ourselves: What do we want to emphasize in our picture? How will we direct our viewers' eye to our subject? If it's an outdoors photograph, how will we separate our main subject from any other distracting elements in our photograph? At which angle should we shoot? Is it important to establish place in this photograph (i.e., is it important for the viewer to know where our subject is? Or do we want to hide the location)? If we're shooting people, what is our victim's least appealing feature (i.e., a large nose, a bald head, pot belly, lotsa wrinkles, etc.:)? How can we hide or de-emphasize it? What's our subject's most appealing feature (i.e., eyes, profile, smile, boobs - oops! sorry, I couldn't resist:) ? How can we emphasize the attractive aspects of our subjects? These are the questions photographers have to ask, before we shoot. THINK before you shoot! MAKE a photograph - don't "take" a snapshot! Learn to "design" your picture before you pick up your camera! Take a piece of paper and a pencil, and sketch out what you want in the picture you're considering; this will be a great help in the beginning, and after a few weeks or months of doing this, you'll start to do it all in your head, and won't need the pencil and paper any more. I promise you that a good photograph doesn't require the genius of an Einstein - it just takes a little thought and preparation (creativity and practice doesn't hurt either)! You don't have to study photography for 20 years, just train yourself to think before you shoot! Don't try to plan out 100 subjects all at once; think about one or two, and then use 10 rolls of film on just a few ideas. Shoot from different angles; shoot from different heights; shoot with different lighting angles; shoot with color film; shoot with black and white film; think, then shoot! Pretty soon, you'll wake up one day and realize that you've changed; you'll look at the world differently; you'll "see" things most people never even notice; one day, you'll realize that you've become something special; something different, but different in a most amazing and wonderful way; you will have become - a photographer! Quickie Technique #4: Exposure - All meters built into all cameras are "reflection" meters; they read the light reflected by our subjects AND everything else in our viewfinder! This often causes incorrect readings, and pictures that turn out looking like doo-doo. Instead of letting our camera's meter to read the exposure from our whole frame, either zoom in to fill the viewfinder with our subject (i.e., the face of our subject, or the flower's petals, or the black cat's coat, etc.), or, if you're not using a zoom lens, walk up close to our subject, fill the viewfinder with the most important part of our subject (i.e., the face, etc. as described above), then, when our viewfinder is filled with our subject and NOT with the surroundings, lock in exposure (e.g., press the shutter button half-way down), and zoom out or back up, re-compose the shot, and then press the shutter button all the way down and make the exposure! I think you'll be amazed with the results! More "quickie techniques" information will be included in my other auction descriptions. Thank you for viewing this auction, and may you have the very best of luck!
You'll also be receiving a Sync Cord (also called a "PC" Cord), and a power cord for both your new SM-1250 ProStrobes; and don't forget that both the SM-1250s and the all the Tilt/Swivel Bulb Holders have integral (built-in) umbrella holders, too! Everything you'll need is included, so when your new photographic equipment arrives, all you'll have to do is plug 'em in, and rock & roll (fire away)! Unlike some other lighting equipment which requires additional power supplies and connector cables, this great A.C. kit comes 100% complete - no additional attachments or accessories are needed to use this equipment (although you might want to add a camera, film, and, oh yeah, a photographer, too:)! Back to top

We all know (er, well, we all should know) how a different background (also called a backdrop) can completely change the look, feel, tone, and atmosphere of a shot. That's why there are backgrounds! Hey, this isn't the forum for a photography lesson, but just as a "quckie" (no, not THAT kind of a quickie :) to give you an idea, look at the pictures below; both are the same girl. Only one has a blue background, and the other has a green backdrop. Look at her eyes. See? If you want to improve your pictures, you must consider backgrounds! Read some more about backgrounds....

Yeah, yeah, I can hear the purists already complaining about the lighting differences, but I ain't trying to make art here, nor is it a "lesson" but just an imperfect example, so keep quiet and make your own pictures; if you've got a better example, send it in, OK? If not, then buy one of these great packages and make better photographs! Back to muslin section, above...

You might like to check out some good books on lighting techniques.

Note: Although this rarely happens, sometimes item numbers or minor appearance differences may change, or new models replace older ones, as manufacturers alter, or update equipment, etc.; items are subject to change (but any changes or replacements will be with items of equal or greater capabilities).

Reality Check: Realize, that all this equipment, while certainly a fantastic deal and a marvelous value, is the working photog's blue collar photographic equipment; not the Hope Diamond. Treat this equipment with minimal respect, and it will see you through to old age; but if you're looking for Ferraris, you'd best go buy something else. At this price, this package is really good quality equipment and, unquestionably, a wonderful deal. It's all brand new stuff (not someone else's old, banged up, castoffs), and, of course, it comes with the manufacturer's full one year warrantee. For hundreds of more impartial, objective opinions, check my feedback and you'll see that everyone who bought this equipment loves it, and that includes me (yes, I use all these items myself, and it's done for me exactly what I bought it for: it's helped me make better photographs - MUCH better photographs, in many different circumstances; give it a fair shot, and it will almost certainly do the same for you!). I promise you, a whole new world of creativity will open up for you. Look at it like this: you start out walking (you've got a camera with a little built-in flash) or taking a bus (you got a dedicated flash unit for your camera - problem is, everybody's face comes out "flat" and usually with "red-eye" too; that's what you get with all on-camera flashes, which also cast those unsightly shadows behind our subjects); when you can afford it, you buy yourself a brand new car (hey, you deserve it, huh?) and start driving a new mid-priced or economy car (this equipment). Then, when your income increases, you can go buy a luxury car (you may not need one, but you can afford it if you want it); when you get rich and famous, you can go buy a Ferrari or a Maserati (if you want); but right now, an economy or mid-priced vehicle is a safe, comfortable, reliable, effective, and perfectly satisfactory mode of transportation, and a whole heck of a lot better than taking a bus or getting shoved around on a subway train (in fact, you just might decide that's all you need, and stick with these great lights from here on out)! Photographically, if you don't have at least a couple of entry-level strobes, you're a public transportation candidate. There's certainly nothin' wrong with that, but boy oh boy, it sure as heck limits your options (ever try taking your date out on a bus? It might get you there, but there ain't no way to cuddle - without getting arrested, anyway:)! In the end, only you can decide what's right for you; as the old saying goes: "You pays your money, and you takes your choice." Do what you think is best, and for goodness sake, don't spend more than you have to. I hope this helps, and answers many of the most common questions I get on this equipment. As I said, I use these exact same items, and I can find nothing whatsoever to complain about (and a whole lot to like); sure, there's more expensive stuff out there, but why pay for more than you need? Everyone has to start somewhere, and this equipment is a great way to get started, or add to your arsenal of photographic creativity, without requiring you to take out a second mortgage on your house. For more objective viewpoints, check my feedback and see what other buyers of this equipment had to say about it. Almost 400 customers love it so far; chances are, you will too. Back to the top

On sale for only $749.95! Back to top of page

You could own this entire package for only $749.95 - which is less than what just one or two strobes from a competing manufacturer would cost you! Comparable systems from other manufacturers run from $1,400.00 to $2,400.00 and often much more! [How can you sell brand new stuff at such low prices? and other common questions...]

Check out my great Photographic web sites HERE and HERE!

"Ladies and Gentlemen, Elvis has left the building..."
Well, folks, that's it for the goodies. Now for the details:

FIVE StrobeProfessional Lighting Studio Package IV - Instant Purchase Link
5 StrobeProfessional Lighting Studio Package IV Kit #375 On Sale for only: $749.95 Shipping (UPS Ground): $52.70* Click the PayPal link to go to a secure site where you can charge your new equipment to your MasterCard, Visa, or pay by Electronic Check. Back to top of page	My PayPal account is in my company name: Adam Publishing Co.
*IMPORTANT: If your shipping address is anywhere other than in the 48 contiguous U.S. States, the shipping charges above will need to be adjusted (if you're outside of the original 48 States, please e-mail me with your shipping address and the kit number for an updated shipping quote). Thank you. Foreign shipping alert.
Note: If you're not a fan of PayPal (some folks don't like it), and would rather use Billpoint, then just send me an e-mail message explaining that you'd prefer to use Billpoint to pay by credit card, and I'll send you an e-mail invoice from Billpoint. If you're not already a verified PayPal member, Billpoint will be quicker and easier (since they don't require bank information or waiting periods). Of course, snail mail payments are also welcome. See all your payment and shipping options here. Back to top of page

Shipping & handling is $52.70 for UPS ground shipping (in continental 48 USA states); please inquire via e-mail if you'd like a shipping quote. Will I ship to Canada/Overseas? Yes, but please read this first. Payments by credit cards, cashier's checks and money orders shipped immediately; personal/business checks are welcome, but order will be held until check clears. Thank you for taking the time to view this auction, may you have best of luck, and happy bidding!! Read my FAQ for answers to common questions.

BTW, if you should ever outgrow this kit (unlikely, because photographers can always use all the lights and stands and accessories we can get; I know many pros who use 6 or 7 or more strobes just for head shots!), but if you do, you can either trade it in on the new ones, or sell it (maybe even right here on eBay) - and you might even be able to sell it for as much as (or maybe even more than) you paid for it! So unlike that great computer we're all using right now (which will be almost worthless, for resale purposes, in 6 months or a year), these lights and accompanying photographic equipment will retain a good portion of their value if or when you're ready to move on.

Guaranteed! This brand new, top quality, kit equals or surpasses those with retail list prices far higher! Go ahead, check with your local photo store(s). Bid responsibly, but with confidence. These items are 100% guaranteed to be brand new, with manufacturer's full one year warantee! You may return this package (in new and undamaged condition, of course) within 7 days of receipt for a full refund (excluding shipping and a manufacturer-imposed 20% restocking fee (why?), if it is not exactly as described above in every way. Trust me, you'll love it! If you'd like to review way over a THOUSAND more impartial and objective opinions about this equipment, check my feedback and see what every other customer has had to say about this package (as well as every other item I've ever sold), and about my service, and my commitment to 100% customer satisfaction! Hey, us struggling photogs have to stick together, y'know (and all of us are always struggling - to make that elusive "perfect" photograph, huh?). Thanks again for viewing this description; feel free to e-mail any questions to me, after reading my FAQ. and Technical Questions pages.

Check out my other auctions!

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As an eBay PowerSeller, a Billpoint PreferredSeller, and a PayPal "Verified" premier business seller, my customers are safer, happier, and better off all around! :-) If you're a PayPal user, you no longer have that darn $1-2,000.00 limit every 6 months on your purchases when you order from me (unlimited credit)! If you're a Billpoint user (your credit is unlimited again), you will NOT have that annoying $500.00 per auction limit on your purchases when you buy from me, and even if you're new to Billpoint, there's NO waiting or verification delays whatsoever, so your order can be shipped immediately (and you can use Billpoint to pay for any purchase from me - unlike the limits you have with ordinary sellers)! You're ALWAYS better off buying from PhotoSource3! Plus, your purchase is doubly guaranteed against fraud! Read more about your safeguards...

NOTE: You're welcome to pay with PayPal, Billpoint, or BidPay by credit card or electronic check. Billpoint and BidPay will allow folks from countries other than the USA to use credit cards, too. For those not technologically inclined, snail mail (i.e. the post office) will also work just fine. See all your payment and shipping options here. I hope this helps provide enough alternatives for you (if not, feel free to send in your suggestions; e-mail me here). One of the differences between me and the big guys, is the fact that I'm always willing to do whatever I possibly can to help out my customers in whatever ways are needed. Here's my philosophy on "Customer Service." Will I ship to Canada and other countries? Sure I will! But read this before placing an out-of-the-USA bid. Basically, if you're willing to pay the increased shipping charges, then I'll probably be happy to ship to you.

P.S. Check out my great Photographic web sites HERE & HERE!

Check out my other auctions!

Feel free to contact me with any questions: PhotoSource3@pss3.com - or - wryter@pacbell.net

Note: Although this rarely happens, sometimes item numbers or minor appearance differences may change, or new models replace older ones, as manufacturers alter, or update equipment, etc.; items are subject to change (but any changes or replacements will be with items of equal or greater capabilities. Being human, sometimes a typographical error might creep into the descriptions; please forgive any mistakes, and please rely on the large listing of the package contents at the top of this description, and repeated again down at the bottom (just to be sure:), for the final word on what this package includes. Thanks for understanding.

Questions, questions, questions....

How can you sell brand new photographic equipment for such low prices? What shipping and payment options do you offer? How do I know I can trust you with my hard-earned money? What's your policy on customer service? Will these pro strobes work with my camera? With my digital camera? What if my camera is old? How do I contact you? If I live in Southern California; can I pick up the equipment myself? Will you offer more photographic equipment (than you have now)? Are your products guaranteed or warranted? What if I want certain equipment, but you don't have an auction with the equipment I want? Do you accept Lay-Away payment plans? Will you ship to Canada or Europe or Asia? What if I have some technical questions? Hey! Somebody else e-mailed me after I bid on your auction(s) and offered me a "deal" on cheaper equipment... and many more of your questions answered - just click below!

Answers, answers, answers....

If this isn't exactly what you're looking for in photographic equipment....

Then Check Out My Other Auctions!

There are complete photographic lighting packages, light stands, background stands and systems, strobes of various powers and capabilities, and all sorts of exciting and educational equipment and information available in my auctions! So check out my other auctions for great deals on quality equipment for photographers of all ilks, ages, sexes, shapes & sizes! =:>) Yup, that means YOU, too! Go on, don't be afraid - CLICK that link.... Or, just ASK ME whatever you'd like!

	Shop with confidence! Bid with confidence! Buy with confidence! From a Profoundly Proud eBay PowerSeller! This PowerSeller proudly provides a plethora of perfect premium photographic products - PLUS - pure, powerful, and peerless customer service! Why you're safer shopping with me... [Ain't that great alliteration? Huh? Well, ain't it?]
--> Check out all my other wonderful auctions!
Check out my great Photographic web sites HERE and HERE!

You Get all this:	Everything is BRAND NEW!
Just scroll up to see pictures / descriptions, or jump to an item by clicking on the "Show Me" links. Kit #375 1) Two Britek SM-1250 Professional Studio Flash Units (125WS) Show Me! 2) One AS-120 90WS Professional Strobe Show Me! 3) Two AS-66 Mini Slave Strobes (20WS) Show Me! 4) Custom Snoot, Barndoors, Honeycomb for Mini Slave Strobes Show Me! 5) Two Britek 3.3 to 7.5 Foot Light stands Show Me! 6) One Britek 303 Backlight stand Show Me! 7) One 32" Silver / Gold Reflection Umbrella Show Me! 8) One 44" White / Black Reflection Umbrella Show Me! 9) Two Unique Umbrella Reflectors Show Me! 10) One Snoot Show Me! 11) One Honeycomb Show Me! 12) One set of Barn Doors Show Me! 13) 2 Pan Head w/Umbrella Clamp Holders (for AS66 strobes) Show Me! 14) One Tilt/Swivel Bulb Holder (for AS-120 Strobe) Show Me! 15) BONUS! Custom light stand carrying/storage case! Show Me! 16) BONUS! Custom Strobe carrying/storage case! Show Me! 17) BONUS! One 6' 8" x 9' Raw Muslin Background/Backdrop Show Me!
A Whole Basic Photographic Studio Setup in One Great Package!

NOTE: The SM-1250 Strobes have been discontinued, and are replaced with the newer, more powerful (and more expensive) PS-300 Pro Strobe. The SM-1250 Strobe(s) in this package will be automatically replaced with the PS-300 Pro Strobe(s) at no additional cost. See the PS-300 here.

© 2001 RMorgan/Adam Publishing Co./Wryter All Wrights Wreserved Worldwide! So there! ;-)