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Fantastic Brand New SIX Strobe
Professional Photography Studio Setup!
PLUS A Triple Background Support System
At a price you can afford (for a change)!

You Get all this:	Everything is BRAND NEW!
Just scroll down to see pictures / descriptions, or jump to an item by clicking on the "Show Me" links. 1) Three Britek SM-1250 Professional Studio Flash Units (125WS) show me 2) One AS-32B Bare Bulb Strobe (80WS) show me 3) Two AS-66 Mini Slave Strobe (20WS) show me 4) Custom Snoot, Barndoors, Honeycomb for Mini Slave Strobes show me 5) Four Britek 305 Pro 2.8 to 6.5 Foot Light stands show me 5) One Britek 303 Backlight stand show me 6) One 32" Silver / Gold Reflection Umbrella show me 7) Two 32" White / Black Reflection Umbrellas show me 7) Three Unique Umbrella Reflectors show me 9) One Snoot show me 10) One Honeycomb show me 11) Two sets of Barn Doors show me 12) Complete Triple Background Support System show me 13) BONUS! 3 Pan Head w/Umbrella Holders (for AS-32B & AS66 strobes) show me 14) BONUS! Custom light stand carrying/storage case! show me 15) BONUS! Custom Strobe carrying/storage case! show me
A Whole 495WS Basic Photographic Studio Setup in One Great Package!
WARNING!	Scam Artists Invade Cyberspace! Tell me about it...

Package 379

Here's some information about the items comprising
your new studio package: The Strobes!

The NEW SM-1250 Monolight This brand new Britek SM-1250 is a great starter Monolight for the beginning professional, the pro with tight budget constraints, or the advanced amateur who is ready to bring the professional look to his or her photographs (without mortgaging the house). Why are photogs so in love with their studios? BECAUSE (in our studios) WE CAN CONTROL THE LIGHT! And a "studio" can be a corner of any room, as long as we can CONTROL THE LIGHT.

After all, the word "photographer" itself (from Greek) actually means Light Writer, or "one who writes with light," or "one who draws with light." The term is meaningful because those of us who make photographs are slaves to light. Light is both our nemesis and our salvation (when we can control the light). Without the right types of lighting equipment, we can never progress to professional level studio pictures. Or location pictures. Sure, we can make beautiful photos with available light... when the light's just right, at the exact time we need it, and at exact place we need it, under all the right conditions.... beginning to see now? When we can control the light, we can make the best photographs.

PhotoSpeak: BTW, did you notice, above, that I said "make" photographs, and not "take" pictures? Well, here's your first lesson in how pros speak about photography (photospeak): "Snapshooters" or "point and shooters," who don't think and plan their shots (e.g., most of us) are the ones who "take" pictures (the rank amateurs). Photographers "make" great photographs by careful thought, detailed planning, and, most of all, scrupulous attention to lighting. Before they even think about pressing that shutter, they "design" their photos carefully. Soon, with a little effort, you'll be "making" great photographs! It's not that hard, believe me. But ya gotta CONTROL THE LIGHT!

This little beauty cranks out a full 125 watt seconds* for mamma or poppa (or both)! Why do photographers want powerful flash equipment (strobes)? Because (both indoors and outdoors) with strobes, WE CAN CONTROL THE LIGHT! Sound familiar? Starting to get the picture, now? (sorry, I just couldn't resist ;-) BTW, did you realize that both the photo above, and the photo on the left, were both taken against the same background? Yup. The backdrop was a pure white canvas. Why does the picture on the left look like it has a brown background? BECAUSE I COULD CONTROL THE LIGHT. Even with a cheapie old (really old) digital Fuji (no speed control, no slr, no aperture choice, etc.). How did I do it? See the "Technique" section, just below. Hmmm... Light! *What's a "Watt Second? And what's a "GN?"

Technique: How was I able to make the background that's in the top picture pure white, and the very same background, in the picture above, appear brown? It's easy - when you know how (it's sorta like this: What kind of question is a hard question? Answer: One you don't know the answer to. And what kind of question is an easy question? Answer: That's the one you do know the answer to). Here's how it's done: In the top picture, I lit the background with a backlight strobe (it's own strobe), so it received enough light to expose properly, and consequently it came out pure white. In the picture above, I did not light the background; I just used the tiny little built-in flash on the digital Fuji, which was enough to (barely) light the strobe I was photographing, but too weak to reach or brighten up the backdrop to white; therefore, the background underexposed and looked brownish, even though it was really a pure white canvas! Carried to an extreme, I could even make a white background look black, if I wanted to. How? By lighting the subject so brightly that the (unlit) background would underexpose (i.e., not receive enough light) so badly it would come out black. It's all in the LIGHT folks; it's all in the light! Remember, a photographer is a LIGHT writer.

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Everything you'll need to start creating GREAT images! All in ONE kit! A GREAT starter studio all together in one package. This will give you an entire photographic lighting and background studio that can be packed away and stashed in the corner of a closet (or laid out in a permanent studio setup)! And the whole package can be yours for a price you can really afford.

With this package, you'll have a great, professional SIX strobe studio setup for LESS than you might pay for one or two competing lights! (Well, probably, anyway :)

More SM-1250 details.....

This is a Fabulous deal, but let's not lose sight of the reality. If you're rich, have a sugar-mommy or daddy, are a high-income pro, or if you can get financing, my advice would be to spring for something (several somethings, in fact) more powerful, more feature-rich (and a LOT more expensive). Lights are like hard disks and internet connections: no matter how big a hard disk is, and no matter how fast your net connection is, they're never big or fast enough. But if you're just starting out, or are on a budget, or are an advanced (or advancing) amateur, these little babies sure make a lot of sense. Let's face it, your portrait clients (or your mother-in-law) won't have any idea whether you paid three hundred or three thousand for each of these strobes; they'll just be impressed (let them think they cost you an arm and a leg; especially those snooty, skinny, little models - "Ya want great head shots, sweetie? It's gonna cost ya; hell, my lights are so valuable, whenever I trade one in, I gotta pay it alimony!") Umm, just some photographer humor, folks :) - it sorta grows on you as you progress in photography; you'll see.

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Now lemme tell ya about another great feature on these dynamite little units that's not found on many competing strobes costing 3-5 times the price of these: when you set these units for 1/2 power, the modeling lights ALSO dim to 1/2 power! What a great feature (what's a "modeling light?" see the explanation just below this picture)! [Why, you may ask, would we want to reduce a strobe's power output? see the "technique" section, below). As we can see from the back view, The New SM-1250 is well-stocked with controls and comes with all the extras already built-in. The SM-1250 is a "Monolight," which means that all the required components are included in the one compact package (as opposed to other strobes which may have the flash head in one segment, and then need an additional and separate power supply in order to get it to work; at an additional cost, too). With these units, everything is included; just plug them in, and fire away!

BTW, a "Modeling Light" is a separate, additional, light (in addition to the strobe's "Flash Tube") that's built into the strobe and throws continuous light over the same area as the strobe's flash tube will (see the picture below for a close-up). You turn on the modeling light (before your shot), so the photographer can see what the modeling will look like, as s/he adjusts the lights before he takes the shot and fires the strobe ("Modeling" is PhotoSpeak for the highlights (light areas) and shadows (dark areas) that fall upon the subject, giving it the depth and texture necessary for professional results). This great feature (modeling light) is usually only found on much more expensive lights. This unit can be activated by the PC Cord (included, of course), the Test Button, or the Slave Sensor (which means that any other flash, even your camera's little built-in flash, can automatically fire this unit by it's light alone, so you don't even need to use a sync (PC) cord unless you want to). BTW, a "PC Cord" (Push Contact), also called a "Sync Cord" is a wire that connects the strobe to your camera's PC socket, and fires the strobe when you press the camera's shutter button.

	We can see the difference between the Modeling Light Bulb and the Flash Tube (the circular tube surrounding the modeling bulb) in this close-up shot of the SM-1250's business end (with the reflector removed, of course). The modeling light is especially valuable to the amateur, because it let's us "see" exactly where the light will fall when the strobe flashes. This feature alone is worth at least a hundred rolls of ruined film (which you'll save by having a modeling light)! One of the major questions (and hesitations) I had when I was beginning to learn photography, was "If you use strobes, how do you know what the subject will look like, or how and where the light will illuminate the subject, if you don't have continuous lighting to judge by?" The answer was really simple: You don't. UNLESS your strobes also have MODELING LIGHTS! With modeling lights, you can see exactly where the strobe's flash will illuminate the subject, because the modeling light falls on the subject the same as the strobe's light will fall on the subject (less intensely, of course)! And this is why the pros pay lotsa money for good strobes that come with modeling lights. That's why the professional photographer's pictures look so much better than ours do: they have the right equipment for the job! They can CONTROL THE LIGHT! And now, so can you.
PhotoSpeak: What's a "Slave Sensor?" Well, if you had to use a PC Cord for every strobe, just think what a mess of tangled wires you'd have if you were using 5 or 6 or more strobes to light your subject (as many pros do)! So, science came to our rescue with slave sensors. It's a tiny little sensor built into most good strobes, that sits & waits for a short, intense burst of light. When it detects this burst of light (the flash from another strobe), it automatically sets off the flash tube in the strobe its built into. Voila! Now, with strobes that have slave sensors (often just called "slaves"), we can connect only one strobe to our cameras (with the PC or Sync cord), usually the strobe closest to our camera, and when we press the shutter button, firing the one connected strobe, that flash will automatically set off all the other strobes we may be using for that shot! Ah, ain't technology wunnerful (sic)? Even most of the little flashes built into most modern cameras can set off most strobes with slaves. A strobe that has PC socket, or both a PC Socket and a slave sensor is called a "Master" strobe; a strobe that only has a slave sensor and no PC socket (usually less expensive units) is called a "Slave." Whichever strobe you're using with a PC cord is referred to as your "master" strobe for purposes of that shot. Most of the better strobes have both PC sockets and slave sensors, so they're more versatile and useful to us (however, there are many very good slaves out there today, and you won't need all your strobes to be masters, so don't hesitate to buy some decent slaves when the time comes - and, believe me, if you stick with photography, the time will come).
Complete: Each of these SM-1250s comes complete with umbrella-capable reflector, sync cord, AC cord, Flash Tube, Modeling Light, built-in umbrella holder, and standard light stand connector; it's ready to plug in and fire away! Since all the strobes in this package are A.C. units, they're ready to rock! No batteries or powerpacks or light heads or connector cords are needed; just plug 'em in, and (just like Elvis) you're ready to rock and roll. As with all quality strobes, these are capable of using many additional accessories, whenever you're ready for them (e.g., snoots, barn doors, softboxes, stands, unbrellas, honeycombs, gel holders, etc.). BTW, pros use umbrellas to "bounce" the strobe's light off of (or sometimes through) to make the light softer, reduce or eliminate shadows, and "mellow-out" the picture. Softboxes (and SoftCases) and umbrellas are specifically designed for this purpose (and yes, these are able to use custom-fitted softboxes & softcases). These are brand new, 100% guaranteed, with the manufacturer's full one year warrantee . These are NOT seconds, blemishes, or anything other than brand new, absolutely perfect, current 2000 models! Just 'cause the price is great, doesn't mean these are in any way less than perfect! Questions? Requests? just e-mail any questions or requests, to me at wryter@usa.net or check out-my web site HERE.-These strobes and other photographic equipment also come with an "extra" that's not available anywhere else, at any price whatsoever: FREE photographic education, advice and training from MyPhotoHome.com (coming soon to a computer near you)! MPH Members also get FREE web space (to post your own pictures), and much, much more (when MyPhotoHome.com comes online, shortly).
Point of Information: Why, you might be asking yourself, have virtually all photographers switched to using strobes, when "regular" continuous lights (photographers call them "hot" lights) are everywhere, and it's easier for us to see how the lighting will look with them? Well, the continuous lights, like the ones in our houses (tungsten lights), or halogen (and similar) are called "hot lights" for a reason: they get hot. Really hot! This tends to make certain things, like flowers, foods, animals, and those darn pesky models, wilt. Especially models. They get very, very, unhappy when they wilt. Bitch, bitch, bitch; you'd think a little melting makeup, and running mascara, and limp hair, and sticky lipstick, and beads of sweat running down their (umm, let's say noses) was a big deal or something, the way they complain! ;-) Also, there's a little problem with the "color temperature" being way off with hot lights, so we have to use special films (3200K or 3400K) or filters when using them (strobes are perfectly balanced at 5500K to simulate sunlight, so we can use all the regular daylight films we've come to love/hate over the years). There are yet other, more esoteric, as well as mundane reasons why strobes are the preferred means of photographic lighting in the modern world, but we'll deal with them another time.
BTW, technically speaking, all professional photographic flash units, even though nearly all pros call them "strobes," are not technically strobe lights. A real stroboscope is capable of dozens (or hundreds or even thousands) of flashes per second, and many can maintain that flash rate for hours on end. Our photographic strobes would die a dozen deaths if we tried to set them off 25 or 50 times a second! However, since photographers almost always call these lights "strobes," we'll just stick with the term; but, technically..... Well, you get the idea ;->

If this package isn't exactly what you need, simply...

Check out my other packages!

Technique: Why would we want to dim a strobe to 1/2 power? Because in order to get great pictures, we have to be able to control the light (sound familiar?) in a number of ways. Sometimes a full power flash is too powerful for the effect we're after; other times we may want to reduce the illumination to create a different mood. In people pictures, for a head shot (that's what photographers call a picture of a person's face, often the face and shoulders), we often want part of the face highlighted, and the other part of the face in a light to medium shadow. This interplay of light and shadow is called "modeling," and is a hallmark of good photography. Anyway, as an example, a common lighting ratio for people pictures is a 1:2 (also 1:3, 1:4, or even 1:5) ratio - full illumination on one side of the face, and 1/2 that amount of light on the other side of the subject's face (we rarely want full frontal lighting, because it gives the face a flat and unappealing look, as well as other negative aspects). The 1:2 (full/half) lighting combination can give us an interesting and often flattering image, with a good ratio of light and shadow - revealing the character, and giving us depth and texture (but be sure to play around with other lighting ratios, too, for even more creativity). Whenever we have two strobes to work with, we can achieve this 1:2 ratio by moving one strobe (the one providing the shadow side lighting) twice as far away from the subject as our main light (the strobe providing the full illumination). But often things get in the way, like walls and such; not all of us have lots of room in our studios (especially living room studios :) to move our lights as far away as we like. Aha! The scientific wizards devised a most convenient solution! A variable-power strobe (like this great SM-1250)! Now, instead of moving lights all over the place, all we have to do is flip a switch, and Voila! 1/2 power without any hassle at all! In some very powerful strobes, we might even find variations from full power, all the way down to 1/32 power. Another way to achieve a lighting ratio (when we only have one strobe) is to use a reflector to "bounce" some light onto the shadow side of the subject's face. You can buy a "professional" reflector for as much as $100.00 or more, but I just use a white poster board, which you can find at any art supply store for under two bucks. You don't have to spend a fortune to make great pictures, just use your equipment to its fullest extent - and use your head! Back up to the SM-1250 description....

BTW, this wonderful package was designed to allow us to use the three SM-1250 Strobes, with their master/slave, variable power, and interchangeable reflector capabilities, to light our subjects in the most creative manner (whether they're people or things) , and still have the AS-32B to light our backgrounds for us (or for toplights), and have the AS-66 Mini-Strobes to use for a hair lights or for anywhere we might want an extra highlight or spot of light. Remember, whenever possible, always try to have the subject at least 36" - 60" in front of the background (whether it's a wall, a sheet, or a professional backdrop, it doesn't matter), so you can 1) hide the background light behind your subject, 2) avoid having the subject's shadow fall on the background, and 3) give the picture 3 dimensional depth and separation (between the subject and the background). Another hint: The best background to start out with (presuming you can't afford a dozen different backgrounds), is white, because by simply using a color filter over your background light (the AS-32B in this kit), you can easily change the color of the background! And, yes the AS-32B can be used with, color filter kits.

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Remember, you're getting THREE of these great SM-1250 strobes!

Here's some information about the items comprising
your new studio kit: The BB-50 80WS Bare-Bulb Strobe
UPGRADED To AS-32B Master Strobe!

BB-50 Upgrade: AS-32B Bare Bulb Master Flash NOTE: This unit has been Upgraded from the BB-50 Slave Unit to the AS-32B Master Unit at no increase in cost to you! The AS-32B looks the same as the BB-50 (illustrated above) but incorporates a Sync (PC) Plug which allows this unit to function as a Master OR as a Slave unit! This AS-32B is a wonderful new bare bulb unit, which pumps out 80-90 full Watt Seconds of power in a wide 180º angle! These strobes are perfect for illuminating the background or backdrop behind your subject, or toplighting, among numerous other uses. Also great for any photographic effect which requires illuminating a wide area. As befits a package that's well-designed (hold the applause, please:), you also get the pan & tilt light head with integral umbrella holder illustrated above. [This top quality unit is capable of fitting an optional color filter set ] Here are the specs: 80/90 WS Output, GN ASA100 @ 50 feet 3-5 Second fast recycling time Variable Power: Full and 1/2 power settings Triggered by PC Cord or Slave Sensor or Test Button Output Angle 180 degrees PC (Sync) Socket, Slave sensor, Ready Light, Test Button, Variable Power Selector Technique: How do we know that the large image of the BB-50, above, was made when the strobe was much too close to the background? C'mon, look at the image; what is it that tells us it was very close to the background? Answer: The SHADOW! Obviously, form the shadow, we know that the large image was 1. very close to the backdrop; and 2. that we lit the strobe with a single, (most likely on-camera), flash, from slightly above the subject (because the shadow falls slightly below the strobe, the light must have come from slightly above it). This is exactly what we DON'T want with most pictures, especially people pictures. I did it on the strobe to give it some dimension, and for an example to discuss with you. You'll notice that all the other images have no shadows.

You're getting One of these great AS-32B bare bulb strobes!

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Q. What the heck is a "WS" and what's a "GN," and what in the world do they mean?

WS = Watt Second | GN = Guide Number Here's a brief explanation (using, for this example, your new SM-1250 strobe (well, it might be yours soon:) , which has a power level of 125WS, and a GN of 125): The "125WS" (or the 80WS, or 20WS, etc.) is the output power of your strobe and a watt second is equal to the electrical term "joules," a high-falutin term for a high power level. The Guide Number (GN) of these SM-1250 units is also 125 (for ASA/ISO 100 film), with a standard reflector. Often, the Watt Second power output is close to the guide number. What good is knowing the guide number? Well, the GN gives us a method of calculating exposure (for any strobe and any film) in this way: to calculate the correct approximate exposure for any subject at any distance, simply divide the distance (in feet) that the subject is from the strobe, into the strobe's GN (guide number); the result is our approximate "F" stop. For example, (presuming you're using ISO/ASA 100 film), our GN is 125, and the subject is 12 feet away, then: 125 (GN) divided by 12 (feet away from the subject) = 10.4, so we'd use an exposure setting of about F11. If our subject is 8 feet away, then: 125 divided by 8 = 15.6 which would give us an approximate F stop of about F 16 (bracketing is always a good idea, too). See? Umm, if you don't understand it, don't worry about it (it took me years to fully comprehend). Suggestion: If you're serious about improving your photography, you might consider getting a handheld flash/ambient light meter (sorry, I don't carry any at this time; if you want recommendations, just ask me). Back to from whence you came...

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Here's some information about the items comprising
your new studio kit: The AS-66 Mini-Strobe Slave -Plus- Custom Accessories and Bulb Holder

AS-66 Mini-Strobe: This has got to be the cutest little Mini-Slave you've ever seen! It's great for adding a hairlight, or a fill light, or for anyplace you might want an extra spot of light! It pumps out 20WS of light, and with all it's included accessories, you'll be able to place that light exactly where you want it. Hey, this is small, but it allows us to add those extra highlights that separate the amateur images from the professional images! This is an accessory light that you'll find yourself using for just about every shot - you'll see!

The Specs: AS-66 Mini-Strobe Slave: 20WS Output GN No.: 66 feet with ASA 100 Receptacle: E27 Edison Screw Base Triggering: Test Button and Slave Sensor Recycling Time: 4-6 seconds Effective Slave Distance: 50 feet WeightL 100 grams Size: 12 x 6 x 6 CM Accessories Included: Custom-Fitted: Barndoors, Honeycomb, and Snoot Plus E-27S Tilt & Swivel Panning Light Holder with integral Umbrella Holder, 10 foot Power Cord, and On-Off Switch

You're getting TWO of these AS-66 Mini Strobes (+ accessories)!

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Here's some information about the items comprising
your new studio kit: The Light Stands!

Unlike many of the items you'll find listed on eBay, these light stands are Brand New, not old, used, banged-up cast-offs that someone else is trying to get rid of. These are 100% new, perfect, and come with the manufacturer's full one year warantee. Consider this when making your purchasing decisions. Top: 3/8" stud, 1/4" thread, type A. Size: 2.8 ft to 6.5 feet; Weight: 2.4 lbs. ea.	Here are some truly great quality light stands. These Brand New Britek light stands extend to a height of 6 1/2 Feet, and fold down (fully assembled) to only 2.8 feet for easy packing and transport. These stands have a black finish which reduces unwanted glare; three vertical sections (19mm, 16mm, 13mm), and three double-braced legs (16mm), which provide excellent stability in the studio or on location. They're topped with a standard 3/8" stud, with a 1/4" thread, type A. Sturdy as all get out, yet only weigh about 2.4 lbs. (so you can pack up a set of three stands for under 8 lbs. for location shoots - believe me, schlepping around anything much heavier can give you a hernia, especially when added to all your other gear). Yet these babies can be folded up and put in the corner of your closet and take up very little space. I've been using these same stands for about a year now, and couldn't be happier! You'll probably love 'em, too. They're sized perfectly for multiple uses: with a low height of 2.8 feet, they're great for background lighting; at their full 6.5 feet, they're perfect for eye level or lighting a sitting subject from above, or even for hairlights; and adjusting them anywhere in-between, they're perfect for the vast majority of subject-level lighting, whether you're photographing kids or people or things! BTW, as stated above, you'll be buying brand new stands here, NOT my used ones (those are mine! you can't have them; I like them, and I'm gonna keep them; you go buy your own! (hey, at this great price, buy several. :). Reality Check: Hey, if you're rich, I'd suggest buying a set of bigger, heavier (& more expensive) stands for your pro studio setup, and another set of lightweight stands for location shoots; but my studio is in my house, and I don't have 20 foot ceilings for the 18' stands anyway, so these stands work just fine for me. 6.5 feet is plenty high, for most uses (and larger stands are also available; see my other auctions). And they're sturdy enough for studio work, and light enough for location work. Realize, though, that these stands, while certainly a great deal and a marvelous value, are the working photog's Chevys and Fords; not Rolls Royces. Treat them with minimal respect, and they'll see you through to old age; but if you're looking for the Ferraris of light stands, go buy something else. At this price, these stands are good quality and a wonderful deal. All brand new and, of course, they come with the manufacturer's full warrantee. Order several, and have a great setup. As with all quality light stands, these are capable of accepting many custom (as well as standard) light stand accessories (booms, clamps, studs, swivels, adapters, ball tilt heads, etc., etc.), as your needs may develop. These sturdy light stands are rated to hold a load of 9 pounds, so they're likely to be able to hold most lighting units you're using. All the sections of these stands are quality tubular stock, NOT the cheapie solid ones (which are heavier and less versatile, as well as cheaper). The only "cheap" part of these stands is the price - not the quality!
Check out my other auctions! I usually have photo equipment, pro strobes, background systems, and other great photo stuff, etc. listed.
Guaranteed! These brand new, top quality, stands equal or surpass in quality many with retail list prices far higher (try double or triple and sometimes even more)! Go ahead, check with your local photo store(s). Bid responsibly, but with confidence. These units are 100% guaranteed to be brand new, with manufacturer's warrantee! You may return these stands (in new and undamaged condition, of course) within 7 days of receipt for a full refund (excluding shipping), if they are not exactly as described above in every way. Trust me, you'll love them! For literally hundreds of other, more impartial and objective opinions, check my feedback; and see what every other customer has had to say about these stands (as well as every other item I've ever sold), and my service, and my commitment to 100% customer satisfaction! Hey, us struggling photogs have to stick together, y'know (and all of us are always struggling - to make that elusive "perfect" photograph or vid, huh?). Thanks again for viewing this auction; feel free to e-mail any questions to me.

Remember, you're getting FOUR of these great light stands!

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Here's some information about the items comprising
your new studio kit: The Backlight Stand!

Backlight Stand Now here's one of the best backlight stands I've ever come across. First of all, it comes apart and folds up into a tiny little package when you're not using it. Next, it's got some really neat extras, like the additional connector on one of its legs that allows us to connect another light or accessory to it, right where we'll need it, too (it's removable, too)! And it's adjustable from a low of only 1.1 foot up to 3.3 feet. It's black, to reduce glare and interference, it has neat little rubber pads on all three of its feet, and comes with a standard light connector on top. Basically, this is the coolest backlight stand I've seen in a long time. Specifications: 3 Section pole: 22, 19, and 16mm tubular stock Weight: 2.9 lbs. Attachment: 5/8" stud with 1/4" thread, type B Base attachment: Type D

You're getting one of these Great Backlight Stands with this package.

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Here's some information about the items comprising
your new studio kit: Complete Triple Background / Backdrop Support System!

Fabulous New TRIPLE Background Support System!

Can hold THREE 12 foot wide backdrops at once! Extends to almost 12 feet high! Whatta Dream Package!

Here's every photo/video/grapher's dream background system all in one dynamite package! Not only can this system hold backgrounds / backdrops up to TWELVE Feet wide (it extends to 12.8 feet wide!), it can hold THREE separate backgrounds at a time! That's right, folks, this system comes with a unique Triple background roll holder. Of course, you can use paper rolls, canvas, muslins, fabrics, or whatever your creative little heart desires (well, whatever you can figure out how to hold on 3 beautiful six section extendable background bars, anyway :). Hey, you know what a pain it is to be constantly running around switching backgrounds, and with this great package, your work will be cut in thirds, since you can have three different backdrops "online" all at the same time! Hey, my job is to make your job easier (within reason, of course; you'll have to interview your own beautiful (or handsome), sexy, models, y'know ;-). But wait! There's MORE! Yessiree folks, even mo'. Also included in this marvelous setup is a custom carrying case to hold this whole tripple system, so you can pack it all up and stash it in the corner of a closet (when your spouse wants the living room back:), or take along on location shoots (wow, just think how much easier it will be to have THREE backdrops - all available at the same time - on locations!

Here's what you'll get with this great new background package: 1) Two 408C compact background stands 2) Three Background roll cross bars (additional bars also available) 3) Two three Background roll bar supports (triple holders) 4) One Custom carrying case for entire system

The Specs: Support stands: 4 sections (25, 22, 19, and 16mm); Legs: 19mm; Extended: 11.8 feet (almost 12 feet high!); Closed: 3.5 feet Cross bars: 6 section poles; Extended: 12.8 feet; Closed: 3.5 feet; Will accept: 12 ft background rolls Multiple bar support: 3 rolls or fabric or canvas, etc. Of course, the backgrounds themselves (i.e., muslins, canvas, paper rolls, etc.) are not included with this great system.

We all know (er, well, we all should know) how a different background (also called a backdrop) can completely change the look, feel, tone, and atmosphere of a shot. That's why there are backgrounds! Hey, this isn't the forum for a photography lesson, but just as a "quckie" (no, not THAT kind of a quickie ;-) to give you an idea, look at the pictures below; both are the same girl. Only one has a blue background, and the other has a green background. Look at her eyes. See? If you want to improve your pictures and videos, you might consider different backgrounds. If you choose to try this, you'll need something to hold the backdrops: ergo, background stands and systems! Check out what's coming soon in backgrounds...

Yeah, yeah, I can hear the purists already complaining about the lighting differences, but I ain't trying to make art here, nor is it a "lesson" but just an imperfect example, so keep quiet and make your own pictures/films; if you've got a better example, send it in (I'll use it!), OK? If not, then buy one of these great packages and make better photographs!

By the way, I'll have some great new backgrounds coming in within a couple of weeks! If you'd like to be notified of new arrivals and special sales not available to the public, just drop me a line asking to be added to my mailing list. E-mail me here.

Pet Peeve2: BTW, unlike some other sellers I've run across, all my merchandise is in stock for immediate shipment!

You're getting one of these great Triple Background Systems with this package!

Here's some information about the items comprising
your new studio kit: The Umbrellas & Accessories!

	Silver / Gold Reflection Umbrella 32" The Gold & Silver umbrellas are made of high 300 denier black cover with PU coating. Inner surfaces are bonded with Silver and Gold aluminum metallic foil. They produce a warm reflected light that creates those warm, soft skin tones that are so desirable for portraiture and many other areas of photography. As with all well-designed, and properly thought-out photographic packages, the accessories included with this great professional kit are those which the photographer needs most, so s/he can create the most effective and striking images for the majority of situations in which we find ourselves in today's world.
	Point of Information: BTW (which means "by the way" for any "newbies" paying us a visit), a "Reflection" umbrella is one that reflects the strobe's light back onto the subject, and thereby softens and diffuses the light. This technique is often used in portraits and for photographing reflective surfaces, and performs many beneficial services for all us hard-working, underpaid, and under-appreciated photographic artists. Keep it a secret from others, though, and let them think we get our beautiful images through some sort of esoteric magic, passed down through the centuries, from master to disciple. It helps increase our value ;-) - and please don't send me any e-mail explaining that photography hasn't been around for centuries, I know that. Duh (actually, photography in one form or another has been around for about a century and a half). Top
	WHITE/BLACK REFLECTION UMBRELLA: 32" The White/Black umbrella is made of the new P-Satin clothes-PU bonding with high denier Satin. Their Black cover can achieve almost 100% light reflection rate and provide soft almost shadowless light, which is suitable for indirect and diffusive lighting. A wonderful method of softening the light. Technique: Photographers use these umbrellas to diffuse and soften light; in portraits, for example, this soft lighting very effectively hides many of the lines and wrinkles on the faces of our victims (umm, our "subjects" :), making them look younger and more vital. It's also great for photographing highly reflective surfaces, such as jewelry, glass, and chrome (it avoids the bright reflections that mess up our pictures). But don't let our clients know our little secrets, just accept their appreciation (along with your quickly-escalating fees), and let them believe it was your phenomenal photographic skill that made them (or their products) look so damn good! Look, you're spending a lot of time and money acquiring the equipment, and learning the skills of the photographic arts; you're becoming a skilled professional; your work is valuable as well as beautiful. Don't price yourself out of the market, certainly, but don't sell yourself cheap, either.
	H70- 150mm 6" Umbrella Reflectors Used alone for about 60º coverage, or with barn doors to control lighting spread, or with an umbrella to create soft and diffuse lighting. This custom reflector is designed with a special "slot" in it to allow for the use of an umbrella, without the need for a special umbrella holder accessory! A unique Britek innovation! This is usually the reflector that comes with the Britek SM-1250 Strobes, since they have an integral umbrella holder built in to the strobe's light stand connector. You get THREE of these reflectors with your package.
	H70MM Snoot The Snoot provides a 30º concentrated light source for spot lighting or dramatic accents. Often used to "spotlight" a product, or a specific area of a photograph; often used for hairlights in people pictures. One of the photographer's "must have" accessories (for the SM-1250s).
	Medium Honeycomb This unit attaches to the end of the Snoot, above, and restricts the light beam to 15º as well as softening the light. Often used for hairlights and accent lights, as well as many other uses. Another one of the photographer's "must have" accessories (for the SM-1250s).
	Barndoors This unit attaches to the strobe's reflector. Barndoors are used by photographers to restrict and control light; wide, narrow, and anything in-between, can be easily achieved by moving the "doors" open or closed over your strobe (for the SM-1250s). You're getting two of these.
	Here's a great little accessory that all photographers always need more of: a panning light head with integral umbrella holder! You get 3 of these tilt & swivel bulb holders with this great 6Strobe Kit (these are designed to hold your AS-32B and AS-66 strobes). It's hard to wax philosophic about a photographic accessory, but anyone who's ever worked with lights knows that these little tools are absolutely indispensable. For example, even a super-duper, antique, $100,000.00 table lamp isn't going to do anyone much good without a light bulb that works (you can't admire much when you're sitting in the dark, y'know). [Which reminds me; a joke or two, anyone? Click here!] And these babies work, and keep on working. You'll need one of these for every standard e-27 Edison base strobe or continuous light you'll ever work with (the E-27 is the standard household light socket size, so you can use "regular" lights with it too, if need be). Plus, this little baby has an integral (built-in) umbrella holder, which saves you from having to buy an additional umbrella adapter, whenever we want to "bounce" the light off of (or through) an umbrella. You're getting 3 of these. Specifications: Single standard E-27 bulb socket On / Off switch 10 foot power cord 3/8" Stud for attaching to light stands Technique: Which picture of this accessory was made when the light holder was very close to the background? C'mon, if you read the "technique" section in the BB-50 Strobe's description (above) you should be able to answer this one!
	Custom Light stand and Umbrella Carrying Case This custom high quality carrying bag is designed to hold all three of your light stands, AND both of your new Umbrellas! Don't tell anyone, but I somehow manage to pack in a few extra goodies whenever I really have to. UPGRADE: New larger light stand carrying case replaces current case at no extra charge! Top
	Custom Strobe and Accessories Carrying Case This custom-made high quality carrying case is designed to hold all four of your strobe lights, AND all your extra accessories, with room for more! It's heavily padded for the safety of your new toys, and has several removable panels and separators, which allow you to customize the interior to suit your ever-changing needs. Finally, a bag that fits!! UPGRADE: New larger strobe carrying case replaces current case at no extra charge!
Remember, you're getting One of each of the brand new accessories above (except for the barn doors & B/W Umbrellas (you get 2) of each. And the umbrella reflectors and the Light holders; you get 3 of each of these)!
It's FUN! -> Subscribe to my photographic Mailing list! <- It's FREE!

You might like to check out some good books on lighting techniques.

Note: Although this rarely happens, sometimes item numbers or minor appearance differences may change, or new models replace older ones, as manufacturers alter, or update equipment, etc.; items are subject to change (but any changes or replacements will be with items of equal or greater capabilities - as you can clearly see with the BB-50 upgrade to the AS-32B, above).

Reality Check: Realize, that all this equipment, while certainly a fantastic deal and a marvelous value, are the working photog's Chevys and Fords (or Toyotas & Nissans) of photographic equipment; not the Rolls Royces. Treat this equipment with minimal respect, and it will see you through to old age; but if you're looking for Ferraris, you'd best go buy something else. At this price, this package is really good quality equipment and, unquestionably, a wonderful deal. It's all brand new stuff (not someone else's old, banged up, castoffs), and, of course, it comes with the manufacturer's full year warrantee. For hundreds of more impartial, objective opinions, check my eBay feedback and you'll see that everyone who bought this equipment loves it, and that includes me (yes, I use all these items myself, and it's done for me exactly what I bought it for: it's helped me make better photographs - MUCH better photographs, in many different circumstances; give it a fair shot, and it will almost certainly do the same for you!). I promise you, a whole new world of creativity will open up for you. Look at it like this: you start out walking (you've got a camera with a little built-in flash) or taking a bus (you got a dedicated flash unit for your camera - problem is, everybody's face comes out "flat" and usually with "red-eye" too; that's what you get with all on-camera flashes); when you can afford it, you buy yourself a brand new car (hey, you deserve it, huh?) and start driving a new ford or chevy (this equipment). Then, when your income increases, you can go buy a Cadillac or Lincoln (you may not need one, but you can afford it if you want it); when you get rich and famous, you can go buy a Ferrari or a Maserati (if you want); but right now, a Chevy is a safe, comfortable, reliable, effective, and perfectly acceptable mode of transportation, and a whole hell of a lot better than taking a bus or getting shoved around on a subway train (in fact, you just might decide that's all you need, and stick with fords and chevys from here on out)! Photographically, if you don't have at least a couple of entry-level strobes, you're a public transportation candidate. There's certainly nothin' wrong with that, but boy oh boy, it sure as heck limits your options (ever try taking your date out on a bus? It might get you there, but there ain't no way to cuddle - without getting arrested, anyway:)! In the end, only you can decide what's right for you; as the old saying goes: "You pays your money, and you takes your choice." Do what you think is best, and for goodness sake, don't spend more than you have to. I hope this helps, and answers many of the most common questions I get on this equipment. As I said, I use these exact same items, and I can find nothing whatsoever to complain about (and a whole lot to like); sure, there's more expensive stuff out there, but why pay for more than you need? Everyone has to start somewhere, and this equipment is a great way to get started, or add to your arsenal of photographic creativity, without requiring you to take out a second mortgage on your house. As I mentioned above, for hundreds of more impartial and objective viewpoints, check my feedback and see what other buyers of this equipment had to say about it. Over 300 wonderful customers love it so far; chances are, you will too. Top

This phenomenal, all brand new, professional, 6 strobe photographic lighting studio - including the fantastic Triple Background System - is available for only $1189.95! Comparable systems from competing manufacturers run from $1,800.00 to $2,600.00 and often much more! [How can you sell brand new stuff at such low prices?]

"Ladies and Gentlemen, Elvis has left the building..."

Well, folks, that's it for the goodies. Now for the details:

Shipping & handling depends upon your choice of shipping methods (ground, 2 day, 3 day, next day air, etc.), and your location (usually around $60-80 for UPS ground shipping in continental 48 USA states); please inquire via e-mail if you'd like a shipping quote. Payments by credit cards, cashier's checks and money orders shipped immediately; personal/business checks are welcome, but order will be held until check clears. Thank you for taking the time to view this auction, may you have best of luck, and happy bidding!!

BTW, be sure to check out my auctions on eBay! I've often got a GREAT deals on brand new photographic equipment, packages and other Photo items. Oh, BTW, if you should ever outgrow this kit (unlikely, because photographers can always use all the lights and stands and accessories we can get; I know many pros who use 6 or 7 or more strobes just for head shots!), but if you do, you can either trade it in on the new ones, or sell it (maybe even on eBay) - and you might even be able to sell it for as much as (or maybe even more than) you paid for it! So unlike that great computer we're all using right now (which will be almost worthless, for resale purposes, in 6 months or a year), these lights and accompanying photographic equipment will retain a good portion of their value if or when you're ready to move on.

Guaranteed! This brand new, top quality, kit equals or surpasses those with retail list prices far higher! Go ahead, check with your local photo stores and supplier(s). Bid responsibly, but with confidence. These items are 100% guaranteed to be brand new, with the full manufacturer's warantee! You may return this package (in new and undamaged condition, of course) within 7 days of receipt for a full refund (excluding shipping), if it is not exactly as described above in every way. Trust me, you'll love it! For hundreds of more impartial and objective opinions, check my eBay feedback; and see what every other customer has had to say about this package (as well as every other item I've ever sold), and about my service, and my commitment to 100% customer satisfaction! Hey, us struggling photogs have to stick together, y'know (and all of us are always struggling - to make that elusive "perfect" photograph, huh?). Thanks again for checking out my site; feel free to e-mail any questions to me, and may the photographic Gods smile upon you! Umm, a nice present from the Lottery Gods wouldn't hurt, either, huh? :) And remember: don't "take" pictures, "Make" great photographs!

Buy from The Photographer's SupplyStation with confidence!

If this isn't exactly what you're looking for in photographic equipment....

Then Check Out My Other Packages!

There are complete photographic lighting packages, light stands, background stands and systems, strobes of various powers and capabilities, and all sorts of exciting and educational equipment and information available! So check out my other packages for great deals on quality equipment for photographers of all ilks, ages, sexes, shapes & sizes! =:>) Yup, that means YOU, too! Go on, don't be afraid - CLICK that link.... Or, just ASK ME whatever you'd like!

I welcome PayPal and BidPay for credit card payments, but prefer PayPal (and, if you're a new PayPal member, they'll even give you $5.00 just for joining)! However, if you're not a PayPal fan (that's OK), Billpoint and BidPay are also welcome.

NOTE: You're welcome to pay with PayPal or BidPay by credit card or electronic check. BidPay will allow folks from countries other than the USA to use credit cards, too (I think). For those not technologically inclined, snail mail (i.e. the post office) will also work just fine. I hope this helps provide enough alternatives for you (if not, feel free to send in your suggestions; e-mail me here).

Check out my eBay auctions!

How can you sell brand new equipment for such low prices?

You Get all this:	Everything is BRAND NEW!
Just scroll down to see pictures / descriptions, or jump to an item by clicking on the "Show Me" links. 1) Three Britek SM-1250 Professional Studio Flash Units (125WS) show me 2) One AS-32B Bare Bulb Strobe (80WS) show me 3) Two AS-66 Mini Slave Strobe (20WS) show me 4) Custom Snoot, Barndoors, Honeycomb for Mini Slave Strobe show me 5) Four Britek 305 Pro 2.8 to 6.5 Foot Light stands show me 5) One Britek 303 Backlight stand show me 6) One 32" Silver / Gold Reflection Umbrella show me 7) Two 32" White / Black Reflection Umbrellas show me 7) Three Unique Umbrella Reflectors show me 9) One Snoot show me 10) One Honeycomb show me 11) Two sets of Barn Doors show me 12) Complete Triple Background Support System show me 13) BONUS! 3 Pan Head w/Umbrella Holders (for AS-32B & AS66 strobes) show me 14) BONUS! Custom light stand carrying/storage case! show me 15) BONUS! Custom Strobe carrying/storage case! show me
A Whole 495WS Basic Photographic Studio Setup in One Great Package!

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WARNING! Unethical Scam Artists Invade Cyberspace!

Hi folks! Thanks for viewing my auctions, and good luck!

HOWEVER, please be careful about the unethical sellers who have been scamming eBay bidders lately! It seems that there are some unscrupulous people who have been e-mailing bidders on my auctions (and other seller's auctions, too), and offering them similar equipment at cheaper prices. Hey, nothing wrong with saving a few bucks, but not only is this against eBay's rules, but some of these nasty people are selling unsuspecting buyers equipment that may be used, equipment someone else has returned as defective (and maybe repaired - maybe not!), or even items recalled for safety violations, that may be dangerous to use! Some characters just don't care if they cheat trusting buyers. It is unfortunate that scam artists have invaded cyberspace, and are taking advantage of decent folks. If you should be unlucky enough to receive such an offer from one of these crooks, please report it to eBay immediately! I'd also appreciate it if you'd send a copy of the message you received to me, too (if it was related to any of my auctions; you can e-mail me here). Always remember, if someone offers you a "deal" that's just "too good to be true," then chances are, it is too good to be true! Please help keep eBay the wonderful place it is for all of us to trade safely and enjoyably. Report any solicitation you might receive to eBay immediately! It will make eBay a better and safer place for us all. As you know, I vigorously encourage you to find the very best deal you possibly can on every purchase (heck, that's why I'm here-to save you money), and patronize the supplier who gives you the best deal, no matter who it is! But be very careful whenever someone violates eBay's safety rules, and the rules of good sense, by contacting you outside of the auction venue with a "special" opportunity. If you buy from a legitimate auction, your purchase is guaranteed by eBay protections (if you pay and never receive the merchandise, or if you receive less than what was described - you're covered - automatically and at no cost to you), and doubly-guaranteed by my PayPal "verified seller" status. But if you buy something from someone (other than the auction's legitimate seller) who e-mailed you, and get screwed by them - you're out of luck. Say "bye-bye" to your hard-earned money. Buy from whomever you like, of course - but be careful and use your head! Thank you again for viewing my auction, and good luck bidding. Take care, and, as always, take (or better yet, "make") lots of great pictures! Back to top BTW, I may occasionally e-mail my auction's bidders with some new information, updates, or opportunities, as may other sellers, too. Just make sure the person e-mailing you is the auction's legitimate seller - with the SAME e-mail address! If the e-mail addresses match, then you'll know for sure. Otherwise, be careful! P.S. 100% Low Price Guarantee! If you bid on my auctions, and then are contacted by anyone who offers to sell you the same equipment you bid on for a lower price, I'll beat the scoundrel's price (even if I have to lose money)! If you'll send me the copy of any e-mail messages you receive with such an offer (along with the headers), I'll provide you with the same equipment you were offered (but I'll guarantee it to be 100% brand new and absolutely perfect) for LESS than the price you were offered! After all, it's only fair to compensate you for doing the right thing, and helping to keep eBay a safe and enjoyable place for us all to trade. Thank you in advance for your kindness and cooperation.

© 2000 RMorgan/Adam Publishing Co./Wryter All Wrights Wreserved Worldwide! So there! ;-)