Fantastic Brand New FOUR Strobe
Professional Photography Studio Setup!
At a price you can afford (for a change)!

Instant Purchase is here!

Click here for details! or see information at bottom

You Get all this:	Everything is BRAND NEW!
Just scroll down to see pictures / descriptions, or jump to an item by clicking on the "Show Me" links. 1) Two Britek SM-1250 Professional Studio Flash Units (125WS) Show Me! 2) One Bare Bulb Slave Strobe (80WS) Show Me! 3) One AS-66 Mini Slave Strobe (20WS) Show Me! 4) Custom Snoot, Barndoors, Honeycomb for Mini Slave Strobe Show Me! 5) Two Britek 307 Pro 3.3 to 7.5 Foot Light stands Show Me! 5) One Britek 303 Backlight stand Show Me! 6) One 32" Silver / Gold Reflection Umbrella Show Me! 7) One 32" White / Black Reflection Umbrella Show Me! 7) Two Unique Umbrella Reflectors Show Me! 9) One Snoot Show Me! 10) One Honeycomb Show Me! 11) One set of Barn Doors Show Me! 13) BONUS! 2 Pan Head w/Umbrella Holders (for BB-50 & AS66 strobes) Show Me! 14) BONUS! Custom light stand carrying/storage bag! Show Me! 15) BONUS! Custom Strobe carrying/storage bag! Show Me!
A Whole 350WS Basic Photographic Studio Setup in One Great Package!

Package 404

Here's some information about the items comprising
your new studio package: The Strobes!

The NEW SM-1250 Monolight This brand new Britek SM-1250 is a great starter Monolight for the beginning professional, the pro with tight budget constraints, or the advanced amateur who is ready to bring the professional look to his or her photographs (without mortgaging the house). Why are photogs so in love with their studios? BECAUSE (in our studios) WE CAN CONTROL THE LIGHT! And a "studio" can be a corner of any room, as long as we can CONTROL THE LIGHT.	After all, the word "photographer" itself (from Greek) actually means Light Writer, or "one who writes with light," or "one who draws with light." The term is meaningful because those of us who make photographs are slaves to light. Light is both our nemesis and our salvation (when we can control the light). Without the right types of lighting equipment, we can never progress to professional level studio pictures. Or location pictures. Sure, we can make beautiful photos with available light... when the light's just right, at the exact time we need it, and at exact place we need it, under all the right conditions.... beginning to see now? When we can control the light, we can make the best photographs.
PhotoSpeak: BTW, did you notice, above, that I said "make" photographs, and not "take" pictures? Well, here's your first lesson in how pros speak about photography (photospeak): "Snapshooters" or "point and shooters," who don't think and plan their shots (e.g., most of us) are the ones who "take" pictures (the rank amateurs). Photographers "make" great photographs by careful thought, detailed planning, and, most of all, scrupulous attention to lighting. Before they even think about pressing that shutter, they "design" their photos carefully. Soon, with a little effort, you'll be "making" great photographs! It's not that hard, believe me. But ya gotta CONTROL THE LIGHT!
This little beauty cranks out a full 125 watt seconds* for mamma or poppa (or both)! Why do photographers want powerful flash equipment (strobes)? Because (both indoors and outdoors) with strobes, WE CAN CONTROL THE LIGHT! Sound familiar? Starting to get the picture, now? (sorry, I just couldn't resist ;-) BTW, did you realize that both the photo above, and the photo on the left, were both taken against the same background? Yup. The backdrop was a pure white canvas. Why does the picture on the left look like it has a brown background? BECAUSE I COULD CONTROL THE LIGHT. Even with a cheapie old (really old) digital Fuji (no speed control, no slr, no aperture choice, etc.). Hmmm... Light! *What's a "Watt Second? And what's a GN?"
Technique: How was I able to make the background in the top picture pure white, and in the picture above brown? It's easy - when you know how (it's sorta like this: What kind of question is a hard question? Answer: One you don't know the answer to. And what kind of question is an easy question? Answer: That's the one you do know the answer to). Here's how it's done: In the top picture, I lit the background with a strobe, so it came out pure white. In the picture above, I did not light the background; I just used the tiny little built-in flash on the digital Fuji, which was enough to (barely) light the strobe I was photographing, but too weak to reach or brighten up the backdrop to white; therefore, the background underexposed and looked brownish, even though it was really a pure white canvas! Carried to an extreme, I could even make a white background look black, if I wanted to. How? By lighting the subject so brightly that the (unlit) background would underexpose so badly it would come out black. It's all in the LIGHT folks; it's all in the light! top

With this package, you'll have a great, professional FOUR strobe studio setup for LESS than you might pay for a single competing light! (Well, probably, anyway :)

More SM-1250 details.....

This is a Fabulous deal, but let's not lose sight of the reality. If you're rich, have a sugar-mommy or daddy, are a high-income pro, or if you can get financing, my advice would be to spring for something (several somethings, in fact) more powerful, more feature-rich (and a LOT more expensive). Lights are like hard disks and internet connections: no matter how big a hard disk is, and no matter how fast your net connection is, they're never big or fast enough. But if you're just starting out, or are on a budget, or are an advanced (or advancing) amateur, these little babies sure make a lot of sense. Let's face it, your portrait clients (or your mother-in-law) won't have any idea whether you paid three hundred or three thousand for each of these strobes; they'll just be impressed (let them think they cost you an arm and a leg; especially those snooty, skinny, little models - "Ya want great head shots, sweetie? It's gonna cost ya; hell, my lights are so valuable, whenever I trade one in, I gotta pay it alimony!") Umm, just some photographer humor, folks :) - it sorta grows on you as you progress in photography; you'll see.

	We can see the difference between the Modeling Light Bulb and the Flash Tube (the circular tube surrounding the modeling bulb) in this close-up shot of the SM-1250's business end (with the reflector removed, of course). The modeling light is especially valuable to the amateur, because it let's us "see" exactly where the light will fall when the strobe flashes. This feature alone is worth at least a hundred rolls of ruined film (which you'll save by having a modeling light)! One of the major questions (and hesitations) I had when I was beginning to learn photography, was "If you use strobes, how do you know what the subject will look like, or how and where the light will illuminate the subject, if you don't have continuous lighting to judge by?" The answer was really simple: You don't. UNLESS your strobes also have MODELING LIGHTS! With modeling lights, you can see exactly where the strobe's flash will illuminate the subject, because the modeling light falls on the subject the same as the strobe's light will fall on the subject (less intensely, of course)! And this is why the pros pay lotsa money for good strobes that come with modeling lights. That's why the professional photographer's pictures look so much better than ours do: they have the right equipment for the job! They can CONTROL THE LIGHT! And now, so can you.
PhotoSpeak: What's a "Slave Sensor?" Well, if you had to use a PC Cord for every strobe, just think what a mess of tangled wires you'd have if you were using 5 or 6 or more strobes to light your subject (as many pros do)! So, science came to our rescue with slave sensors. It's a tiny little sensor built into most good strobes, that sits & waits for a short, intense burst of light. When it detects this burst of light (the flash from another strobe), it automatically sets off the flash tube in the strobe its built into. Voila! Now, with strobes that have slave sensors (often just called "slaves"), we can connect only one strobe to our cameras (with the PC or Sync cord), usually the strobe closest to our camera, and when we press the shutter button, firing the one connected strobe, that flash will automatically set off all the other strobes we may be using for that shot! Ah, ain't technology wunnerful (sic)? Even most of the little flashes built into most modern cameras can set off most strobes with slaves. A strobe that has PC socket, or both a PC Socket and a slave sensor is called a "Master" strobe; a strobe that only has a slave sensor and no PC socket (usually less expensive units) is called a "Slave." Whichever strobe you're using with a PC cord is referred to as your "master" strobe for purposes of that shot. Most of the better strobes have both PC sockets and slave sensors, so they're more versatile and useful to us (however, there are many very good slaves out there today, and you won't need all your strobes to be masters, so don't hesitate to buy some decent slaves when the time comes - and, believe me, if you stick with photography, the time will come).
Complete: Each of these SM-1250s comes complete with umbrella-capable reflector, sync cord, AC cord, Flash Tube, Modeling Light, built-in umbrella holder, and standard light stand connector; it's ready to plug in and fire away! Since all the strobes in this package are A.C. units, they're ready to rock! No batteries or powerpacks or light heads or connector cords are needed; just plug 'em in, and (just like Elvis) you're ready to rock and roll. Many additional accessories are also available for these units, whenever you're ready for them (e.g., snoots, barn doors, softboxes, stands, unbrellas, honeycombs, gel holders, etc.). BTW, pros use umbrellas to "bounce" the strobe's light off of (or sometimes through) to make the light softer, reduce or eliminate shadows, and "mellow-out" the picture. Softboxes (and a great SoftCase) are also great for this purpose (yes, softboxes & softcases are also available). These are brand new, 100% guaranteed, with the manufacturer's full one year warrantee . These are NOT seconds, blemishes, or anything other than brand new, absolutely perfect, current 2000 models! Just 'cause the price is great, doesn't mean these are in any way less than perfect! Want more strobes, light stands, umbrellas, softboxes, and other goodies? Additional units and accessories are always available; just e-mail any questions or requests, to me at wryter@usa.net or check out-my web site HERE.-These strobes and other photographic equipment also come with an "extra" that's not available anywhere else, at any price whatsoever: FREE photographic education, advice and training from MyPhotoHome.com (coming soon to a computer near you)! MPH Members also get FREE web space (to post your own pictures), and much, much more (when MyPhotoHome.com comes online, shortly).
Point of Information: Why, you might be asking yourself, have virtually all photographers switched to using strobes, when "regular" continuous lights (photographers call them "hot" lights) are everywhere, and it's easier for us to see how the lighting will look with them? Well, the continuous lights, like the ones in our houses (tungsten lights), or halogen (and similar) are called "hot lights" for a reason: they get hot. Really hot! This tends to make certain things, like flowers, foods, animals, and those darn pesky models, wilt. Especially models. They get very, very, unhappy when they wilt. Bitch, bitch, bitch; you'd think a little melting makeup, and running mascara, and limp hair, and sticky lipstick, and beads of sweat running down their (umm, let's say noses) was a big deal or something, the way they complain! ;-) Also, there's a little problem with the "color temperature" being way off with hot lights, so we have to use special films (3200K or 3400K) or filters when using them (strobes are perfectly balanced at 5500K to simulate sunlight, so we can use all the regular daylight films we've come to love/hate over the years). There are yet other, more esoteric, as well as mundane reasons why strobes are the preferred means of photographic lighting in the modern world, but we'll deal with them another time.
BTW, technically speaking, all professional photographic flash units, even though nearly all pros call them "strobes," are not technically strobe lights. A real stroboscope is capable of dozens (or hundreds or even thousands) of flashes per second, and many can maintain that flash rate for hours on end. Our photographic strobes would die a dozen deaths if we tried to set them off 25 or 50 times a second! However, since photographers almost always call these lights "strobes," we'll just stick with the term; but, technically..... Well, you get the idea ;-> top

Technique: Why would we want to dim a strobe to 1/2 power? Because in order to get great pictures, we have to be able to control the light (sound familiar?) in a number of ways. Sometimes a full power flash is too powerful for the effect we're after; other times we may want to reduce the illumination to create a different mood. In people pictures, for a head shot (that's what photographers call a picture of a person's face, often the face and shoulders), we often want part of the face highlighted, and the other part of the face in a light to medium shadow. This interplay of light and shadow is called "modeling," and is a hallmark of good photography. Anyway, as an example, a common lighting ratio for people pictures is a 1:2 (also 1:3, 1:4, or even 1:5) ratio - full illumination on one side of the face, and 1/2 that amount of light on the other side of the subject's face (we rarely want full frontal lighting, because it gives the face a flat and unappealing look, as well as other negative aspects). The 1:2 (full/half) lighting combination can give us an interesting and often flattering image, with a good ratio of light and shadow - revealing the character, and giving us depth and texture (but be sure to play around with other lighting ratios, too, for even more creativity). Whenever we have two strobes to work with, we can achieve this 1:2 ratio by moving one strobe (the one providing the shadow side lighting) twice as far away from the subject as our main light (the strobe providing the full illumination). But often things get in the way, like walls and such; not all of us have lots of room in our studios (especially living room studios :) to move our lights as far away as we like. Aha! The scientific wizards devised a most convenient solution! A variable-power strobe (like this great SM-1250)! Now, instead of moving lights all over the place, all we have to do is flip a switch, and Voila! 1/2 power without any hassle at all! In some very powerful strobes, we might even find variations from full power, all the way down to 1/32 power. Another way to achieve a lighting ratio (when we only have one strobe) is to use a reflector to "bounce" some light onto the shadow side of the subject's face. You can buy a "professional" reflector for as much as $100.00 or more, but I just use a white poster board, which you can find at any art supply store for under two bucks. You don't have to spend a fortune to make great pictures, just use your equipment to its fullest extent - and use your head!

BTW, this particular package was designed to allow us to use the two SM-1250 Strobes, with their master/slave, variable power, and interchangeable reflector capabilities, to light our subjects in the most creative manner (whether they're people or things) , and still have the BB-50 slave to light our backgrounds for us (or for toplights), and have the AS-66 to use for a hair light or for anywhere we might want an extra highlight or spot of light. Remember, whenever possible, always try to have the subject at least 36" - 60" in front of the background (whether it's a wall, a sheet, or a professional backdrop, it doesn't matter), so you can 1) hide the background light behind your subject, 2) avoid having the subject's shadow fall on the background, and 3) give the picture 3 dimensional depth and separation (between the subject and the background). Another hint: The best background to start out with (presuming you can't afford a dozen different backgrounds), is white, because by simply using a color filter over your background light (the BB-50 in this kit), you can easily change the color of the background! And, yes, a color filter kit for your new BB-50 is available. Some time in the near future, you might want to acquire a background system; if you win this auction (or any of my auctions), just let me know whenever you're ready, and you'll get a special discount on every future purchase!

Remember, you're getting TWO of these great SM-1250 strobes!

Q. What the heck is a "WS" and what's a "GN," and what in the world do they mean?

WS = Watt Second | GN = Guide Number Here's a brief explanation (using, for this example, your new SM-1250 strobe (well, it might be yours soon:) , which has a power level of 125WS, and a GN of 125): The "125WS" (or the 80WS, or 20WS, etc.) is the output power of your strobe and a watt second is equal to the electrical term "joules," a high-falutin term for a high power level. The Guide Number (GN) of these SM-1250 units is also 125 (for ASA/ISO 100 film), with a standard reflector. Often, the Watt Second power output is close to the guide number. What good is knowing the guide number? Well, the GN gives us a method of calculating exposure (for any strobe and any film) in this way: to calculate the correct approximate exposure for any subject at any distance, simply divide the distance (in feet) that the subject is from the strobe, into the strobe's GN (guide number); the result is our approximate "F" stop. For example, (presuming you're using ISO/ASA 100 film), our GN is 125, and the subject is 12 feet away, then: 125 (GN) divided by 12 (feet away from the subject) = 10.4, so we'd use an exposure setting of about F11. If our subject is 8 feet away, then: 125 divided by 8 = 15.6 which would give us an approximate F stop of about F 16 (bracketing is always a good idea, too). See? Umm, if you don't understand it, don't worry about it (it took me years to fully comprehend). Suggestion: If you're serious about improving your photography, you might consider getting a handheld flash/ambient light meter (sorry, I don't carry any at this time; if you want recommendations, just ask me). Back to the SM-1250 description

Here's some information about the items comprising
your new studio kit: The BB-50 80WS Bare-Bulb Strobe

BB-50 Bare Bulb Flash (slave) This is a wonderful new slave unit, which pumps out 80 full Watt Seconds of power in a wide 180º angle! These strobes are perfect for illuminating the background or backdrop behind your subject, or toplighting, among other uses. Also great for any photographic effect which requires illuminating a wide area. Additional accessories available whenever your little heart desires. As befits a package that's well-designed (hold the applause), you also get the panning light head with integral umbrella holder illustrated above. [Check out the optional color filter set for the BB-50] Here are the specs: 80 WS Output, GN ASA100 @ 50 feet 3-5 Second fast recycling time Variable Power: Full and 1/2 power settings Triggered by Slave Sensor or Test Button Output Angle 180 degrees Slave sensor, Ready Light, Test Button Technique: How do we know that the large image of the BB-50, above, was made when the strobe was much too close to the background? C'mon, look at the image; what is it that tells us it was very close to the background? Answer: The SHADOW! Obviously, form the shadow, we know that the large image was 1. very close to the backdrop; and 2. that we lit the strobe with a single, (most likely on-camera), flash, from slightly above the subject (because the shadow falls slightly below the strobe, the light must have come from slightly above it). This is exactly what we DON'T want with most pictures, especially people pictures. I did it on the strobe to give it some dimension, and for an example to discuss with you. You'll notice that all the other images have no shadows. top

You're getting One of these great BB-50 bare bulb strobes!

Here's some information about the items comprising
your new studio kit: The AS-66 Mini-Strobe Slave -Plus- Custom Accessories and Bulb Holder

AS-66 Mini-Strobe: This has got to be the cutest little Mini-Slave you've ever seen! It's great for adding a hairlight, or a fill light, or for anyplace you might want an extra spot of light! It pumps out 20WS of light, and with all it's included accessories, you'll be able to place that light exactly where you want it. Hey, this is small, but it allows us to add those extra highlights that separate the amateur images from the professional images! This is an accessory light that you'll find yourself using for just about every shot - you'll see!

The Specs: AS-66 Mini-Strobe Slave: 20WS Output GN No.: 66 feet with ASA 100 Receptacle: E27 Edison Screw Base Triggering: Test Button and Slave Sensor Recycling Time: 4-6 seconds Effective Slave Distance: 50 feet WeightL 100 grams Size: 12 x 6 x 6 CM Accessories Included: Custom-Fitted: Barndoors Honeycomb Snoot Plus E-27S Tilt & Swivel Panning Light Holder with integral Umbrella Holder, 10 foot Power Cord, and On-Off Switch

You're getting One of these AS-66 Mini Strobes (+ accessories)!

Here's some information about the items comprising
your new studio kit: The Light Stands!

	These are really excellent quality light stands. These Brand New Britek light stands extend to a height of 7 1/2 Feet, and fold down (fully assembled) to only 3.3 feet for easy packing and transport. These stands have a black finish which reduces unwanted glare; three vertical sections (22mm, 19mm, 16mm), and three double-braced legs (16mm), which provide excellent stability in the studio or on location. They're topped with a standard 5/8" stud, with a 1/4" thread, type B. Sturdy as all get out, yet only weigh about 3.3 lbs. (so you can pack up a set of three stands for under 10 lbs. for location shoots - believe me, schlepping around anything heavier can give you a hernia, especially when added to all your other gear). Yet these babies can be folded up and put in the corner of your closet and take up very little space. I've been using these same stands for almost a year now, and couldn't be happier! You'll probably love 'em, too. They're sized perfectly for multiple uses: with a low height of 3.3 feet, they're great for background lighting; at their full 7.5 feet, they're perfect for lighting from above, or hairlights; and adjusting them anywhere in-between, they're perfect for subject-level lighting, whether you're photographing kids or basketball players (or things)! BTW, as stated above, you'll be buying brand new stands here, NOT my used ones (those are mine! you can't have them; I like them, and I'm gonna keep them; you go buy your own! (hey, at this great price, buy several. :). Reality Check: Hey, if you're rich, I'd suggest buying a set of bigger, heavier (& more expensive) stands for your pro studio setup, and another set of lightweight stands for location shoots; but my studio is in my house, and I don't have 20 foot ceilings for the 15' stands anyway, so these stands work just fine for me. 7.5 feet is plenty high, even for hairlights, etc. And they're sturdy enough for studio work, and light enough for location work. Be aware, though, that these stands, while certainly a great deal and a real value, are the working photog's Toyotas and Nissans; not Rolls Royces. Treat them with minimal respect, and they'll last till old age; but if you're looking for the Rembrandts of light stands, go buy something else. These stands are good quality and a great deal. All brand new and, of course, they come with the manufacturer's full warrantee. Additional accessories are also available (booms, clamps, studs, swivels, adapters, ball tilt heads, etc., etc.), as your needs may dictate. These sturdy light stands are rated to hold a load of over 17 1/2 pounds (but, personally, I try to keep the load under 15 lbs when it's fully extended out to 7 1/2 feet) either way, they're likely to be able to hold darn near any lighting units you're using. Of course, we have bigger and heavier stands, too; just e-mail any requests to: wryter@usa.net All the sections of these stands are quality tubular stock, NOT the cheapie solid ones (which are heavier and less versatile, as well as cheaper). The only "cheap" part of these stands is the price - not the quality! Bid now, while they're still in stock.
Check out my eBay auctions! I usually have photo filters, pro strobes, and other great photo stuff, etc. listed.
Guaranteed! These brand new, top quality, stands equal or surpass in quality many with retail list prices far higher (try double or more)! Go ahead, check with your local photo store(s). Bid responsibly, but with confidence. These units are 100% guaranteed to be brand new, with manufacturer's warrantee! You may return this stand (in new and undamaged condition, of course) within 7 days of receipt for a full refund (excluding shipping), if it is not exactly as described above in every way. Trust me, you'll love it! Check my eBay feedback and see.
Remember... you're also getting a beautiful, custom carrying case for your light stands and umbrellas! So whenever you're going on a location shoot, you can pack everything up nice and neat, in its own special case! top

Remember, you're getting TWO of these great light stands!

Here's some information about the items comprising
your new studio kit: The Backlight Stand!

Backlight Stand Now here's one of the best backlight stands I've ever come across. First of all, it comes apart and folds up into a tiny little package when you're not using it. Next, it's got some really neat extras, like the additional connector on one of its legs that allows us to connect another light or accessory to it, right where we'll need it, too (it's removable, too)! And it's adjustable from a low of only 1.1 foot up to 3.3 feet. It's black, to reduce glare and interference, it has neat little rubber pads on all three of its feet, and comes with a standard light connector on top. Basically, this is the coolest backlight stand I've seen in a long time. Specifications: 3 Section pole: 22, 19, and 16mm tubular stock Weight: 2.9 lbs. Attachment: 5/8" stud with 1/4" thread, type B Base attachment: Type D top

You're getting one of these Great Backlight Stands with this package.

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Here's some information about the items comprising
your new studio kit: The Umbrellas & Accessories!

	Silver / Gold Reflection Umbrella 32" The Gold & Silver umbrellas are made of high 300 denier black cover with PU coating. Inner surfaces are bonded with Silver and Gold aluminum metallic foil. They produce a warm reflected light that creates those warm, soft skin tones that are so desirable for portraiture and many other areas of photography. As with all well-designed, and properly thought-out photographic packages, the accessories included with this great professional kit are those which the photographer needs most, so s/he can create the most effective and striking images for the majority of situations in which we find ourselves in today's world.
	Point of Information: BTW (which means "by the way" for any "newbies" paying us a visit), a "Reflection" umbrella is one that reflects the strobe's light back onto the subject, and thereby softens and diffuses the light. This technique is often used in portraits and for photographing reflective surfaces, and performs many beneficial services for all us hard-working, underpaid, and under-appreciated photographic artists. Keep it a secret from others, though, and let them think we get our beautiful images through some sort of esoteric magic, passed down through the centuries, from master to disciple. It helps increase our value ;-) - and please don't send me any e-mail explaining that photography hasn't been around for centuries, I know that. Duh. top
	White/Black Reflection Umbrella: 32" The White/Black umbrella is made of the new P-Satin clothes-PU bonding with high denier Satin. Their Black cover can achieve almost 100% light reflection rate and provide soft almost shadowless light, which is suitable for indirect and diffusive lighting. A wonderful method of softening the light.
	H70- 150mm 6" Umbrella Reflectors Used alone for about 60º coverage or with an umbrella to create soft and diffuse lighting. This custom reflector is designed with a special "slot" in it to allow for the use of an umbrella, without the need for a special umbrella holder accessory! A unique Britek innovation! This is usually the reflector that comes with the Britek SM-1250 Strobes, since they have an integral umbrella holder built in to the strobe's light stand connector. You get TWO of these reflectors with your package.
	H70MM Snoot The Snoot provides a 30º concentrated light source for spot lighting or dramatic accents. Often used to "spotlight" a product, or a specific area of a photograph; often used for hairlights in people pictures. One of the photographer's "must have" accessories (for the SM-1250s).
	Medium Honeycomb This unit attaches to the end of the Snoot, above, and restricts the light beam to 15º as well as softening the light. Often used for hairlights and accent lights, as well as many other uses. Another one of the photographer's "must have" accessories (for the SM-1250s).
	Barndoors This unit attaches to the strobe's reflector. Barndoors are used by photographers to restrict and control light; wide, narrow, and anything in-between, can be easily achieved by moving the "doors" open or closed over your strobe (for the SM-1250s).
	Here's a great little accessory that all photographers always need more of: a panning light head with integral umbrella holder! You get TWO of these tilt & swivel bulb holders with this great 4 Strobe Kit (these are designed to hold your BB-50 and AS-66 strobes). It's hard to wax philosophic about a photographic accessory, but anyone who's ever worked with lights knows that these little tools are absolutely indispensable. For example, even a super-duper, antique, $100,000.00 table lamp isn't going to do anyone much good without a light bulb that works. And this little baby works, and keeps on working. You'll need one of these for every standard e-27 Edison base strobe or continuous light you'll ever work with (the E-27 is the standard household light socket size, so you can use "regular" lights with it too, if need be). Plus, this little baby has an integral (built-in) umbrella holder, which saves you from having to buy an additional umbrella adapter, whenever we want to "bounce" the light off of (or through) an umbrella. Specifications: Single standard E-27 bulb socket On / Off switch 10 foot power cord 3/8" Stud for attaching to light stands Technique: Which picture of this accessory was made when the light holder was very close to the background? C'mon, if you read the "technique" section in the BB-50 Strobe's description (above) you should be able to answer this one!
	Custom Light stand and Umbrella Carrying Case This custom high quality carrying bag is designed to hold all three of your light stands, AND both of your new Umbrellas! Don't tell anyone, but I somehow manage to pack in a few extras whenever I really have to.
	Custom Strobe and Accessories Carrying Case This custom-made high quality carrying case is designed to hold all four of your strobe lights, AND all your extra accessories, with room for more! It's heavily padded for the safety of your new toys, and has several removable panels and separators, which allow you to customize the interior to suit your ever-changing needs. Finally, a bag that fits!!
Remember, you're getting One of each of the brand new accessories above (except for the umbrella reflectors and the E27 Tilt & Swivel Panning Light holders; you get two of each of these)!

xxxxxx- Instant Purchase Link
4 Strobe Pro lighting Package Kit #xxx On Sale for only: $879.95 Shipping (UPS Ground): $49.85* Click the PayPal link to go to a secure site where you can charge your new equipment to your MasterCard, Visa, or pay with an Electronic Check. Back to top of page	My PayPal account is in my company name: Adam Publishing Co.
*IMPORTANT: If your shipping address is anywhere other than in the 48 contiguous U.S. States, the shipping charges above will need to be adjusted (if you're outside of the original 48 States, please e-mail me with your shipping address and the kit number for an updated shipping quote). Thank you. Foreign shipping alert.
Note: If you're not a fan of PayPal (some folks don't like it), and would rather use Billpoint, then just send me an e-mail message with the kit number explaining that you'd prefer to use Billpoint to pay by credit card, and I'll send you an e-mail invoice from Billpoint (the e-mail will contain all the instructions and links to a secure site where you can pay with your credit card). If you're not already a verified PayPal member, Billpoint will be quicker and easier (since they don't require bank information or waiting periods). Of course, snail mail payments are also welcome. See all your payment and shipping options here. Back to top of page

"Ladies and Gentlemen, Elvis has left the building..."

Well, folks, that's it for the goodies. Now for the details:

Shipping & handling depends upon your choice of shipping methods, and your location (an approximate shipping cost would be in the neighborhood of $40-50.00); please inquire via e-mail (include your address) if you'd like a shipping quote. Payments by credit cards, cashier's checks and money orders shipped immediately; personal/business checks are welcome, but will be held until check clears. Thank you for taking the time to view this auction, may you have best of luck, and happy bidding!!

BTW, be sure to check out my auctions on eBay! I've often got a GREAT deals on brand new photographic equipment, packages and other Photo items. Oh, BTW, if you should ever outgrow this kit (unlikely, because photographers can always use all the lights and stands and accessories we can get; I know many pros who use 6 or 7 or more strobes just for head shots!), but if you do, you can either trade it in on the new ones, or sell it (maybe even on eBay) - and you might even be able to sell it for as much as (or maybe even more than) you paid for it! So unlike that great computer we're all using right now (which will be almost worthless, for resale purposes, in 6 months or a year), these lights and accompanying photographic equipment will retain a good portion of their value if or when you're ready to move on.

Guaranteed! This brand new, top quality, kit equals or surpasses those with retail list prices far higher! Go ahead, check with your local photo store(s). Bid responsibly, but with confidence. These items are 100% guaranteed to be brand new, with the full manufacturer's warantee! You may return this package (in new and undamaged condition, of course) within 7 days of receipt for a full refund (excluding shipping), if it is not exactly as described above in every way. Trust me, you'll love it! Check my eBay feedback; and see what every other customer has had to say about this package (as well as every other item I've ever sold), and about my service, and my commitment to 100% customer satisfaction! Hey, us struggling photogs have to stick together, y'know (and all of us are always struggling - to make that elusive "perfect" photograph, huh?). Thanks again for viewing this auction; feel free to e-mail any questions to me, and may the photographic Gods smile upon you! Umm, a nice present from the Lottery Gods wouldn't hurt, either, huh? :)

Check out my eBay auctions!

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You Get all this:	Everything is BRAND NEW!
Just scroll up to see pictures / descriptions, or jump to an item by clicking on the "Show Me" links. 1) Two Britek SM-1250 Professional Studio Flash Units (125WS) Show Me! 2) One Bare Bulb Slave Strobe (80WS) Show Me! 3) One AS-66 Mini Slave Strobe (20WS) Show Me! 4) Custom Snoot, Barndoors, Honeycomb for Mini Slave Strobe Show Me! 5) Two Britek 307 Pro 3.3 to 7.5 Foot Light stands Show Me! 5) One Britek 303 Backlight stand Show Me! 6) One 32" Silver / Gold Reflection Umbrella Show Me! 7) One 32" White / Black Reflection Umbrella Show Me! 7) Two Unique Umbrella Reflectors Show Me! 9) One Snoot Show Me! 10) One Honeycomb Show Me! 11) One set of Barn Doors Show Me! 13) BONUS! 2 Pan Head w/Umbrella Holders (for BB-50 & AS66 strobes) Show Me! 14) BONUS! Custom light stand carrying/storage bag! Show Me! 15) BONUS! Custom Strobe carrying/storage bag! Show Me!
An entire 350WS Basic Photographic Studio Setup in One Great Package! (And, you can stash the whole setup neatly away in the corner of a closet) (But, once you get it set up, it'll be so beautiful you'll really hate to hide it away in a closet - trust me, I've been there!)

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