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3SK180

Three Strobe Starter Package - All Brand New!

Here's a GREAT New 3 Strobe Starter Package! All BRAND NEW!

Here's what you get: 1) One Britek SM-1250 125WS Professional Strobe 2) One Britek BB-50 80WS Bare Bulb Strobe 3) One Britek AS-66 20WS Mini Strobe with Custom Barndoors, Snoot, & Honeycomb Set 4) Two Britek 6 1/2 Foot Light Stands 5) One Britek BackLight Stand 6) One 32" Black / White Umbrella 7) One H70MM Snoot 8) One Medium Honeycomb and 9) Two Tilt & Swivel Bulb Holders

Just scroll down to see these items. (Kit #180)

Here's some information about the items comprising
your new studio kit: NEW! Britek SM-1250 Professional Studio Flash

The NEW SM-1250 Monolight This brand new Britek SM-1250 is a great starter Monolight for the beginning professional, the pro with tight budget constraints, or the advanced amateur who is ready to bring the professional look to his or her photographs (without mortgaging the house). Why are photogs so in love with their studios? BECAUSE (in our studios) WE CAN CONTROL THE LIGHT! And a "studio" can be a corner of any room, as long as we can CONTROL THE LIGHT.	After all, the word "photographer" itself (from Greek) actually means Light Writer, or "one who writes with light," or "one who draws with light." The term is meaningful because those of us who make photographs are slaves to light. Light is both our nemesis and our salvation (when we can control the light). Without the right types of lighting equipment, we can never progress to professional level studio pictures. Or location pictures. Sure, we can make beautiful photos with available light... when the light's just right, at the exact time we need it, and at exact place we need it, under all the right conditions.... beginning to see now? When we can control the light, we can make the best photographs.
PhotoSpeak: BTW, did you notice, above, that I said "make" photographs, and not "take" pictures? Well, here's your first lesson in how pros speak about photography (photospeak): "Snapshooters" or "point and shooters," who don't think and plan their shots (e.g., most of us) are the ones who "take" pictures (the rank amateurs). Photographers "make" great photographs by careful thought, detailed planning, and, most of all, scrupulous attention to lighting. Before they even think about pressing that shutter, they "design" their photos carefully. Soon, with a little effort, you'll be "making" great photographs! It's not that hard, believe me. But ya gotta CONTROL THE LIGHT!
This little beauty cranks out a full 125 watt seconds for mamma or poppa (or both)! Why do photographers want powerful flash equipment (strobes)? Because (both indoors and outdoors) with strobes, WE CAN CONTROL THE LIGHT! Sound familiar? Starting to get the picture, now? (sorry, I just couldn't resist ;-) BTW, did you realize that both the photo above, and the photo on the left, were both taken against the same background? Yup. The backdrop was a pure white canvas. Why does the picture on the left look like it has a brown background? BECAUSE I COULD CONTROL THE LIGHT. Even with a cheapie old (really old) digital Fuji (no speed control, no slr, no aperture choice, etc.). Hmmm... Light!
Technique: How was I able to make the background in the top picture pure white, and in the picture above brown? It's easy - when you know how (it's sorta like this: What kind of question is a hard question? Answer: One you don't know the answer to. And what kind of question is an easy question? Answer: That's the one you do know the answer to). Here's how it's done: In the top picture, I lit the background with a strobe, so it came out pure white. In the picture above, I did not light the background; I just used the tiny little built-in flash on the digital Fuji, which was enough to (barely) light the strobe I was photographing, but too weak to reach or brighten up the backdrop to white; therefore, the background underexposed and looked brownish, even though it was really a pure white canvas! Carried to an extreme, I could even make a white background look black, if I wanted to. How? By lighting the subject so brightly that the (unlit) background would underexpose so badly it would come out black. It's all in the LIGHT folks; it's all in the light!

At the great price you'll get this kit for, you could buy 2 or even 3 of them for LESS than you might pay for a single competing light! (Well, probably, anyway :)

More about the new SM-1250.....

This is a Fabulous deal, but let's not lose sight of the reality. If you're rich, have a sugar-mommy or daddy, are a high-income pro, or if you can get financing, my advice would be to spring for something (several somethings, in fact) more powerful, more feature-rich (and a LOT more expensive). Lights are like hard disks and internet connections: no matter how big a hard disk is, and no matter how fast your net connection is, they're never big or fast enough. But if you're just starting out, or are on a budget, or are an advanced (or advancing) amateur, these little babies sure make a lot of sense. Let's face it, your portrait clients (or your mother-in-law) won't have any idea whether you paid three hundred or three thousand for each of these strobes; they'll just be impressed (let them think they cost you an arm and a leg; especially those snooty, skinny, little models - "Ya want great head shots, sweetie? It's gonna cost ya; hell, my lights are so valuable, whenever I trade one in, I gotta pay it alimony!") Umm, just some photographer humor, folks :) - it sorta grows on you as you progress in photography; you'll see.

	We can see the difference between the Modeling Light Bulb and the Flash Tube (the circular tube surrounding the modeling bulb) in this close-up shot of the SM-1250's business end (with the reflector removed, of course). The modeling light is especially valuable to the amateur, because it let's us "see" exactly where the light will fall when the strobe flashes. This feature alone is worth at least a hundred rolls of ruined film (which you'll save by having a modeling light)! One of the major questions (and hesitations) I had when I was beginning to learn photography, was "If you use strobes, how do you know what the subject will look like, or how and where the light will illuminate the subject, if you don't have continuous lighting to judge by?" The answer was really simple: You don't. UNLESS your strobes also have MODELING LIGHTS! With modeling lights, you can see exactly where the strobe's flash will illuminate the subject, because the modeling light falls on the subject the same as the strobe's light will fall on the subject (less intensely, of course)! And this is why the pros pay lotsa money for good strobes that come with modeling lights. That's why the professional photographer's pictures look so much better than ours do: they have the right equipment for the job! They can CONTROL THE LIGHT! And now, so can you.
PhotoSpeak: What's a "Slave Sensor?" Well, if you had to use a PC Cord for every strobe, just think what a mess of tangled wires you'd have if you were using 5 or 6 or more strobes to light your subject (as many pros do)! So, science came to our rescue with slave sensors. It's a tiny little sensor built into most good strobes, that sits & waits for a short, intense burst of light. When it detects this burst of light (the flash from another strobe), it automatically sets off the flash tube in the strobe its built into. Voila! Now, with strobes that have slave sensors (often just called "slaves"), we can connect only one strobe to our cameras (with the PC or Sync cord), usually the strobe closest to our camera, and when we press the shutter button, firing the one connected strobe, that flash will automatically set off all the other strobes we may be using for that shot! Ah, ain't technology wunnerful (sic)? Even most of the little flashes built into most modern cameras can set off most strobes with slaves. A strobe that has PC socket, or both a PC Socket and a slave sensor is called a "Master" strobe; a strobe that only has a slave sensor and no PC socket (usually less expensive units) is called a "Slave." Whichever strobe you're using with a PC cord is referred to as your "master" strobe for purposes of that shot. Most of the better strobes have both PC sockets and slave sensors, so they're more versatile and useful to us (however, there are many very good slaves out there today, and you won't need all your strobes to be masters, so don't hesitate to buy some decent slaves when the time comes - and, believe me, if you stick with photography, the time will come).
Complete: Each of these SM-1250s comes complete with umbrella-capable reflector, sync cord, AC cord, Flash Tube, Modeling Light, built-in umbrella holder, and standard light stand connector; it's ready to plug in and fire away! Many additional accessories are also available for these units, whenever you're ready for them (e.g., snoots, barn doors, softboxes, stands, unbrellas, honeycombs, gel holders, etc.). BTW, pros use umbrellas to "bounce" the strobe's light off of (or sometimes through) to make the light softer, reduce or eliminate shadows, and "mellow-out" the picture. Softboxes are also great for this purpose (yes, softboxes are also available). Simply plug this great light into any 110 v AC plug, and you're on your way to great pictures (DC units also available)! Free photo education and tips are included (when our new web site comes online soon; you'll automatically be notified if you win an auction). These are brand new, 100% guaranteed, with full manufacturer's warrantee . These are NOT seconds, blemishes, or anything other than brand new, absolutely perfect, current 2000 models! Just 'cause the price is great, doesn't mean these are in any way less than perfect! Want more strobes, light stands, umbrellas, softboxes, and other goodies? Additional units and accessories are always available; just e-mail any questions or requests, to me at wryter@usa.net --These strobes and other photographic equipment also come with an "extra" that's not available anywhere else, at any price whatsoever: FREE photographic education, advice and training from MyPhotoHome.com (coming soon to a computer near you)! MPH Members also get FREE web space (to post your own pictures), and much, much more (when MyPhotoHome.com comes online, shortly).
Point of Information: Why, you might be asking yourself, have virtually all photographers switched to using strobes, when "regular" continuous lights (photographers call them "hot" lights) are everywhere, and it's easier for us to see how the lighting will look with them? Well, the continuous lights, like the ones in our houses (tungsten lights), or halogen (and similar) are called "hot lights" for a reason: they get hot. Really hot! This tends to make certain things, like flowers, foods, animals, and those darn pesky models, wilt. Especially models. They get very, very, unhappy when they wilt. Bitch, bitch, bitch; you'd think a little melting makeup, and running mascara, and limp hair, and sticky lipstick, and beads of sweat running down their (umm, let's say noses) was a big deal or something, the way they complain! ;-) Also, there's a little problem with the "color temperature" being way off with hot lights, so we have to use special films (3200K or 3400K) or filters when using them (strobes are perfectly balanced at 5500K to simulate sunlight, so we can use all the regular daylight films we've come to love/hate over the years). There are yet other, more esoteric, as well as mundane reasons why strobes are the preferred means of photographic lighting in the modern world, but we'll deal with them another time.
BTW, technically speaking, all professional photographic flash units, even though nearly all pros call them "strobes," are not technically strobe lights. A real stroboscope is capable of dozens (or hundreds or even thousands) of flashes per second, and many can maintain that flash rate for hours on end. Our photographic strobes would die a dozen deaths if we tried to set them off 25 or 50 times a second! However, since photographers almost always call these lights "strobes," we'll just stick with the term; but, technically..... Well, you get the idea ;->

Technique: Why would we want to dim a strobe to 1/2 power? Because in order to get great pictures, we have to be able to control the light (sound familiar?) in a number of ways. Sometimes a full power flash is too powerful for the effect we're after; other times we may want to reduce the illumination to create a different mood. In people pictures, for a head shot (that's what photographers call a picture of a person's face, often the face and shoulders), we often want part of the face highlighted, and the other part of the face in a light to medium shadow. This interplay of light and shadow is called "modeling," and is a hallmark of good photography. Anyway, as an example, a common lighting ratio for people pictures is a 1:2 (or 1:3) ratio - full illumination on one side of the face, and 1/2 that amount of light on the other side of the subject's face (we rarely want full frontal lighting, because it gives the face a flat and unappealing look, as well as other negative aspects). The 1:2 (full/half) lighting combination gives us an interesting and often flattering image, with a good ratio of light and shadow - revealing the character, and giving us depth and texture (but be sure to play around with other lighting ratios, too, for even more creativity). Whenever we have two strobes to work with, we can achieve this 1:2 ratio by moving one strobe (the one providing the shadow side lighting) twice as far away from the subject as our main light (the strobe providing the full illumination). But often things get in the way, like walls and such; not all of us have lots of room in our studios (especially living room studios :) to move our lights as far away as we like. Aha! The scientific wizards devised a most convenient solution! A variable-power strobe (like this great SM-1250)! Now, instead of moving lights all over the place, all we have to do is flip a switch, and Voila! 1/2 power without any hassle at all! In some very powerful strobes, we might even find variations from full power, all the way down to 1/32 power. Another way to achieve a lighting ratio (when we only have one strobe) is to use a reflector to "bounce" some light onto the shadow side of the subject's face. You can buy a "professional" reflector for as much as $100.00 or more, but I just use a white poster board, which you can find at any art supply store for under two bucks. You don't have to spend a fortune to make great pictures, just use your equipment to its fullest extent - and use your head!

Here's some information about the items comprising
your new studio kit: The BB-50 80WS Bare-Bulb Strobe

BB-50 Bare Bulb Flash (slave) This is a wonderful new slave unit, which pumps out 80 full Watt Seconds of power in a wide 180º angle! These strobes are perfect for illuminating the background or backdrop behind your subject, or toplighting, among other uses. Also great for any photographic effect which requires illuminating a wide area. Additional accessories available whenever your little heart desires. As befits a package that's well-designed (hold the applause), you also get the panning light head with integral umbrella holder illustrated above. [Check out the optional color filter set for the BB-50] Here are the specs: 80 WS Output, GN ASA100 @ 50 feet 3-5 Second fast recycling time Variable Power: Full and 1/2 power settings Triggered by Slave Sensor or Test Button Output Angle 180 degrees Slave sensor, Ready Light, Test Button, Variable Power Selector Technique: How do we know that the large image of the BB-50, above, was made when the strobe was much too close to the background? C'mon, look at the image; what is it that tells us it was very close to the background? Answer: The SHADOW! Obviously, form the shadow, we know that the large image was 1. very close to the backdrop; and 2. that we lit the strobe with a single, (most likely on-camera), flash, from slightly above the subject (because the shadow falls slightly below the strobe, the light must have come from slightly above it). This is exactly what we DON'T want with most pictures, especially people pictures. I did it on the strobe to give it some dimension, and for an example to discuss with you. You'll notice that all the other images have no shadows.

You're getting One of these great BB-50 bare bulb strobes!

Here's some information about the items comprising
your new studio kit: The AS-66 Mini-Strobe Slave -Plus- Custom Accessories and Bulb Holder

AS-66 Mini-Strobe: This has got to be the cutest little Mini-Slave you've ever seen! It's great for adding a hairlight, or a fill light, or for anyplace you might want an extra spot of light! It pumps out 20WS of light, and with all it's included accessories, you'll be able to place that light exactly where you want it. Hey, this is small, but it allows us to add those extra highlights that separate the amateur images from the professional images! This is an accessory light that you'll find yourself using for just about every shot - you'll see!

The Specs: AS-66 Mini-Strobe Slave: 20WS Output GN No.: 66 feet with ASA 100 Receptacle: E27 Edison Screw Base Triggering: Test Button and Slave Sensor Recycling Time: 4-6 seconds Effective Slave Distance: 50 feet WeightL 100 grams Size: 12 x 6 x 6 CM Accessories Included: Custom-Fitted: Barndoors Honeycomb Snoot - Plus - E-27S Tilt & Swivel Panning Light Holder with integral Umbrella Holder, 10 foot Power Cord, and On-Off Switch

Reality Check: But be aware, though, that this unit is NOT sufficient to light a large subject (e.g., people) all by itself. But to illuminate small items, or for a fill light, an accent light, a hairlight, a copy light, or as an additional light for all your setups, etc., this 'lil beauty is a photographer's best friend! It will come in handy for almost every shot, and will allow you to fill in those little areas where an extra highlight or a little spot of light - right where you need it -can make all the difference in your shot. The accessories included will allow you to direct the light to the specific spot or area you want. Remember, it's all in the little details!

You're getting one AS-66 Mini-Strobe (& accessories) with this kit

Here's some information about the items comprising
your new studio kit: Brand New 2.8 to 6.5 Foot Light stands

Unlike many of the items you'll find listed on eBay, all these items are Brand New, not old, used, banged-up cast-offs that someone else is trying to get rid of. These are 100% new, perfect, and come with the manufacturer's full warantee. Consider this when making your purchasing decisions.

Here's a fabulous deal on an excellent quality light stand. This Brand New Britek light stand extends to a height of 6 1/2 Feet, and folds down (fully assembled) to only 2.8 feet for easy packing and transport. These stands have a black finish which reduces unwanted glare; three vertical sections (19mm, 16mm, 13mm), and three double-braced legs (16mm), which provide excellent stability in the studio or on location. They're topped with a standard 3/8" stud with 1/4" thread, type A. Sturdy as all get out, yet only weigh about 3 lbs. (so you can pack up a set of three stands for under 10 lbs. for location shoots - believe me, schlepping around anything heavier can give you a hernia, especially when added to all your other gear). Yet these babies can be folded up and put in the corner of your closet and take up very little space. I've been using these same stands for over a year now, and couldn't be happier! You'll probably love 'em, too. They're sized perfectly for multiple uses: with a low height of under 3 feet, they're great for background lighting; at their full 6.5 feet, they're perfect for lighting standing subjects, lighting from above for kids or sitting subjects, or even hairlights; and adjusting them anywhere in-between, they're perfect for subject-level lighting, whether you're photographing kids or adults (or things)! BTW, as stated above, you'll be buying brand new stands here, NOT my used ones (those are mine! you can't have them; I like them, and I'm gonna keep them; you go buy your own! (hey, at this great price, buy several. :). Reality Check: Hey, if you're rich, I'd suggest buying a set of bigger, heavier (& more expensive) stands for your pro studio setup, and another set of lightweight stands for location shoots; but my studio is in my house, and I don't have 20 foot ceilings for the 15' stands anyway, so these stands work just fine for me. 6.5 feet is plenty high for most uses, and we have larger stands should you need more height. And they're sturdy enough for studio work, and light enough for location work. Realize, though, that these stands, while certainly a great deal and a marvelous value, are the working photog's Chevys and Fords; not Rolls Royces. Treat them with minimal respect, and they'll see you through to old age; but if you're looking for the Ferraris of light stands, go buy something else. This sturdy light stand is rated to hold a load of 10 pounds (but, personally, I try to keep the load under 9 lbs when it's fully extended) either way, it's likely to be able to hold darn near any lighting unit you're using. Of course, there are bigger and heavier stands, too. All the sections of these stands are quality tubular stock, NOT the cheapie solid ones (which are heavier and less versatile, as well as cheaper). The only "cheap" part of these stands is the price - not the quality! Bid now, while they're still in stock.

Here's some information about the items comprising
your new Starter kit: The Backlight Stand

Backlight Stand Now here's one of the best backlight stands I've ever come across. First of all, it comes apart and folds up into a tiny little package when you're not using it. Next, it's got some really neat extras, like the additional connector on one of its legs that allows us to connect another light or accessory to it, right where we'll need it, too (it's removable, too)! And it's adjustable from a low of only 1.1 foot up to 3.3 feet. It's black, to reduce glare and interference, it has neat little rubber pads on all three of its feet, and comes with a standard light connector on top. Basically, this is the coolest backlight stand I've seen in a long time. Specifications: 3 Section pole: 22, 19, and 16mm tubular stock Weight: 2.9 lbs. Attachment: 5/8" stud with 1/4" thread, type B Base attachment: Type D

You're getting one Backlight stand (303) with this kit

Umbrella & Accessories

	WHITE/BLACK REFLECTION UMBRELLA: 32" The White/Black umbrella is made of the new P-Satin clothes-PU bonding with high denier Satin. Their Black cover can achieve almost 100% light reflection rate and provide soft almost shadowless light, which is suitable for indirect and diffusive lighting. A wonderful method of softening the light. Technique: Photographers use these umbrellas to diffuse and soften light; in portraits, for example, this soft lighting very effectively hides many of the lines and wrinkles on the faces of our victims (umm, our "subjects" :), making them look younger and more vital. It's also great for photographing highly reflective surfaces, such as jewelry, glass, and chrome (it avoids the bright reflections that mess up our pictures). But don't let our clients know our little secrets, just accept their appreciation (along with your quickly-escalating fees), and let them believe it was your phenomenal photographic skill that made them (or their products) look so damn good! Look, you're spending a lot of time and money acquiring the equipment, and learning the skills of the photographic arts; you're becoming a skilled professional; your work is valuable as well as beautiful. Don't price yourself out of the market, certainly, but don't sell yourself cheap, either.
	Point of Information: BTW (btw means "by the way" for any "newbies" paying us a visit), a "Reflection" umbrella is one that reflects the strobe's light back onto the subject, and thereby softens and diffuses the light. This technique is often used in portraits, delicate items, and for photographing reflective surfaces, and performs many beneficial services for all us hard-working, and under-appreciated photographic artists. Keep it a secret from others, though, and let them think we get our beautiful images through some sort of secret and esoteric magic, passed down through the centuries, from master to disciple. It helps increase our value ;-) - and please don't send me any e-mail explaining that photography hasn't been around for centuries, I know that. Duh.
	H70MM Snoot The Snoot provides a 30º concentrated light source for spot lighting or dramatic accents. Often used to "spotlight" a product, or a specific area of a photograph; also used for hairlights in people pictures. One of the photographer's "must have" accessories (the Snoot also acts as a holder for the Medium Honeycomb, below).
	Medium Honeycomb This unit attaches to the end of the Snoot, above, and restricts the light beam to 15º as well as softening the light. Often used for hairlights and accent lights, as well as many other uses. Another one of the photographer's "must have" accessories.
You will receive One of each of the items above with this kit.
	Here's a great little accessory that all photographers always need more of: a panning light head with integral umbrella holder! You get TWO of these with this great 3 Strobe Starter Kit. It's hard to wax philosophic about a photographic accessory, but anyone who's ever worked with lights knows that these little tools are absolutely indispensable. For example, even a super-duper, antique, $100,000.00 table lamp isn't going to do anyone much good without a light bulb that works. And this little baby works, and keeps on working. You'll need one of these for every standard e-27 Edison base strobe or continuous light you'll ever work with (the E-27 is the standard household light socket size, so you can use "regular" lights with it too, if need be). Plus, this little baby has an integral (built-in) umbrella holder, which saves you from having to buy an additional umbrella adapter, whenever you might want to "bounce" the light off of (or through) an umbrella. Specifications: Single standard E-27 bulb socket On / Off switch 10 foot power cord 3/8" Stud for attaching to light stands
You will receive Two of each of the Bulb Holders above with this kit.
Options: Add an additional 32" transparent "shoot through" umbrella for only $14.95 (when ordered with the purchase of this kit)!
--> This whole kit is only $539.95! <--

"Ladies and gentlemen, Elvis has left the building...."

Well, that's it for the goodies, folks. Now for the details:

Shipping & handling is only $38.55 for UPS ground delivery (in continental USA)! Other shipping methods available (UPS 3 Day, Next Day Air or Fed Express, etc.), buyer chooses. Payments by credit cards, cashier's checks and money orders shipped immediately; personal/business checks are welcome, but will be held until check clears. Thank you for taking the time to view this auction, may you have best of luck, and happy bidding!! [Q: How can you sell brand new equipment for such low prices? Q: If I'm local, can I pick up the equipment? etc., etc.]

BTW, be sure to check out my auctions on eBay! I've often got a GREAT deals on brand new photographic equipment, packages and other Photo items. Oh, BTW, if you should ever outgrow this strobe kit (unlikely, because photographers can always use all the lights and light stands we can get; I know many pros who use 6 or 7 or more strobes just for head shots!), but if you do, you can either trade it in on the new ones, or sell it (maybe even right here on eBay) - and you might even be able to sell it for as much as (or maybe even more than) you paid for it! So unlike that great computer we're all using right now (which will be almost worthless, for resale purposes, in 6 months or a year), this light and photographic equipment will retain a good portion (if not all) of its value if or when you're ready to move on.

Guaranteed! This brand new, top quality, kit equals or surpasses those with retail list prices far higher! Go ahead, check with your local photo store(s). Bid responsibly, but with confidence. These items are 100% guaranteed to be brand new, with manufacturer's warantee! You may return this package (in new and undamaged condition, of course) within 7 days of receipt for a full refund (excluding shipping), if it is not exactly as described above in every way. Trust me, you'll love it! For a more impartial point of view, Check my eBay feedback; and see what every other customer has had to say about this product (as well as every other item I've ever sold), and about my service, and my commitment to 100% customer satisfaction! Hey, us struggling photogs have to stick together, y'know (and all of us are always struggling - to make that elusive "perfect" photograph, huh?). Thanks again for viewing this auction; feel free to e-mail any questions to me.

Conveniently pay for your purchases with MasterCard or Visa with PayPal!

The reason I chose PayPal, is because unlike Billpoint or all the other credit card processors, PayPal doesn't charge either one of us anything at all. Nada! Zilch! Zero! Zip! No credit card fees, and no transaction fees! I'm sure you realize that all the per-charge fees, plus the 3.5% to 10% of the total price fees that that the other credit card processors charge us, simply ends up being passed on to you in the form of higher prices. One of the reasons I can keep the prices and reserves on my auctions so low, and still offer the convenience of credit card purchasing, is because I do my very best to keep costs as low as humanly possible (a marked lack of greed doesn't seem to hurt, either:).

Check out my eBay auctions!

Here's a GREAT New 3 Strobe Starter Package! All BRAND NEW!

Here's what you get: 1) One Britek SM-1250 125WS Professional Strobe 2) One Britek BB-50 80WS Bare Bulb Strobe (Show Me) 3) One Britek AS-66 20WS Mini Strobe with Custom Barndoors, Snoot, & Honeycomb Set 4) Two Britek 6 1/2 Foot Light Stands 5) One Britek BackLight Stand 6) One 32" Black / White Umbrella 7) One H70MM Snoot 8) One Medium Honeycomb and 9) Two Tilt & Swivel Bulb Holders

Just scroll Up to see up to these items. (Kit #180)

© 2000 Rmorgan/Wryter/Adam Publishing Co. All Wrights Wreserved Worldwide! So there! ;-)